Today... Kathmandu Nepal!

SLEEP MARATHON IN PROGRESS....with

1) exhaustion after last 2 weeks travelling in India
2) recovery from a 6 day nasty episode of Traveller's... (cough) 'Tummy'.  Ok just try to spell 'diaharrah'  for heaven sake!  Then admitted defeat and took the 4 day prescribed course of antibiotics, FYI  effective within 24 hours!
3) and freezing cold anywhere but wrapped in 2 quilts and my sleeping bag by 7 pm at night!  I am on the edge of buying a wool toque and mitts.... but I'm going to be in Thailand 90 degree heat in 2.5 weeks!  CAN I tough it out?

Impressions of Nepal:   This is where 'New Age' originated I am SURE, so interesting to be here and feel Old Age Spiritualism... the prayers, chanting, humming, singing, music, red and gold Buddist robes... It has a strong sense of peace and kindness.  Lovely. 

Gone are the days of Indian Men stares, constant Madam, Madam.... buy (everything) please!  beggers crying and reaching out, Indian Men peeing, well pretty much everywhere, and overall total chaos in the cities.  Gone too, the wonderful kindnesses at the most unexpected times, eg lugging 40 lbs up a steep stairway (railway stations) and have a beautifully sari dressed lady, complete with little heels grab hold of the back to heft it up with me! Riding 'coach class' and a peasant family with not one word of English, share their meal.  Being rescued in the middle of a mob in Varansi by a young guy and his friend.  Spending hours with M.M. a young Indian lawyer discussing culture, astrology, religion, the law, and education.  Being (overly) protected on my very first solo train trip - on the platform, woman asking if I needed help, checking my ticket and confirming I am 'ok'. the guys in next berth offering me some of their dinner, and the 'conductor' constantly making sure I had everything possible for my comfort. Yes the positives outweigh the negatives, and as usual my own attitude and barriers are responsible for 90% of the negatives!

So, Nepal! Here we are with a whole different set of challenges and rewards!

* The power is out approximately 50% of the time; water is unavailable occasionally from 30" - 4 hours (I think), and both internet and wifi is undependable, there is no heat in the rooms burrr....

* frustration and grief with my left hip physical limitations - I cannot even go for a walk up a hill never mind on a 2 - 5 day trek.  Thanks to Belle the actual pain and discomfort is minimal if I don't overdo stairs or walking.  It's humbling to accept this in Nepal of all places, the hiker in me is in shock

* turning this around somewhat by thinking .." this is a temporary situation, I am no different than anyone else, so deal with it|? I have arms and legs, I have resourses and I will get better.  I promise myself I will come back to Nepal for a long trek in world famous mountains....  so there! " Ok in all honesty, the 'deal with it' part is not working, acceptance is not one of my easy virtues!

* there are two main treasures Nepal offers me:  Trekking and Spirituality.  One is out and my gift today is to look around and embrace the other.  I am now showing up and paying attention!

WARNING:
The following is Rated 'Only For Those Who Are Interested In (Sherry's) Personal Growth and Spirituality': 

*SMD School - Today I met Tsewang Diki, the 14 year old Grade 7 girl I am sponsoring!  I was upstairs in the office and Chaynga (see below) paged  her.  Within a minute she comes puffing into the office with flushed face she had sprinted down the hall to meet me!   We have a 'Date' on Saturday March 17, we'll go  shopping and out for lunch.   I had a tour of the school yesterday and today met the Vice Principle and Chaynga, a student who is currently working with Shirley (the Director) in the office. He is so excited as he will be studying in Red Deer this Fall for Grade 11 and 12, then on to university. I start working the the kids tomorrow :) :)  warm, cozy and yummy thoughts and feelings! 

*Note:  being around the school makes me miss Braden and Isaiah SO much!  Thank God they have the home and family, the food, the clothing and advantages kids here cannot take for granted.
* The children at the school/orphanage are so well taken care of, loved and fed but only because of SMD. It is not 'normal' for these kids to recieve an education, they are from the 'lowest caste'.

My Itinerary here in Nepal:

* Volunteer SMD School:   March 5 - 8; March 16 - 22

* Bhakapur - Trangu Kha Cho Ling (Buddist) Retreat:  March 9 - 12

* Namo Buddha - Guesthouse Trangu Tashi Yortse Monestary  March 13 - 15

* Depart to Bangkok, Thailand to meet my guy JIM - March 22!!!!!

Yep the standard 'Taj Smile'! and Yes I am totally as happy as I look!

Raja 'The King' in all his glory! Note little ol' me.... insignificant really!

Introducing RAJA!!!!

G'bye India....... HELLO Nepal!

FYI
I have attachment issues.  I hadn't recovered from missing Belle and Ellen, then I meet Suzan and Csilla for 3 days - loved their company which included an amazing 2 hour dawn boat trip on the Ganges - and now missing all 4 of them!!! I am becoming a co-dependent, independent soft-core non back packer... traveller UGHGG. 

Am profoundly aware of 10 days hard travel adventures not logged into blog... like for example:

* Camel Infatuation

Met Raja (The King...) with head held elegantly 15 feet above me, I tentatively (but very bravely) hold out my insignificant hand. He gently lowers his 3.5' long head wayyyy down to my level, and softly puts his massive muzzle on my hand.  Raja is in no hurry to end our brief encounter and I believe we should have a long term relationship! Forget trains, I want a CAMEL but not just any camel... only Raja has my heart. I learn camels are very intelligent, at the same level as elephants and dogs.  Raja is 9 years old but looks much younger due a posh lifestyle as a pampered 5 Star Tour Camel (ok my words), was bought at 3 years old and broken (like a horse) over a 4 month period.  This training started with hooking him up to a cart full of boulders, then 6 men hanging onto the reins for dear life while he took them for a wild ride.....now he is a huge pussy cat! 

*  Taj Mahal

Achieved a new status in my own eyes and I privately think of myself in a new light: 'she who has seen one of the 7 Wonders of The World;'  The Taj exceeded my expectations.

* INDIAN TRAINS

 I've logged approximately 2500 kms on overnight trains, from Sleeper to Air Con 2 class! Got to the point on my last trip from Jaipur to Dehli, I boarded at 2 am, threw my sleeping bag and pillow on the 'bed', tucked my wallet inside my pillow, pack under the seat, earplugs in and was asleep before the train left the station.  At 7:45 am my berth mates, an elderly Indian couple, gently tapped my shoulder speaking in Hindi.  I thought I was snoring so kindly, but resentfully smiled at them, and rolled over.  I tightly closed my eyes, wishing them to go away or hush, then heard whispering (one of my earplugs had popped out!) then they said 'Madam, Madam Dehli, Dehli..... JEEZE!!!!   Bless their hearts I could have ended up back in Calcutta if left to my own devices...

TRAIN PORTER STORY

Note to Self:   24 hour time schedules must be read carefully. I am not to be trusted, so also ask for confirmation of my time interpretation.

Barely made the Varnansie train to Jaipur, arrived 10 minutes before departure lugging a 40 lb wheely beast behind me and with a glance at 2 flights of steep stairs, packed with people, made an independent, executive decision deciding not to count on the kindness of strangers to help me.. and TOOK ON THE PORTER system!!!  If only I could have grabbed a snapshot of 'my Porter' (he got away with charging me 2x the going rate, which is a bargain considering I was about to miss my train, and for that amount of money he was MY Porter).  Now picture this:  he's at least 6 foot, weighing in at 150 lbs, dressed in bright red from head to ankle.  On his head:  a thickly wrapped red towel (matches the shirt and pants) adding another 8 - 10 inches and perfectly balanced on that is REI Wheely Beast, gliding gracefully through an ocean of Indian bodies, around food vendors, lost tourists and up and down stairs with me riding the wake behind him! for $4 I was efficiently delivered to the right platform, right train, correct car and my very own berth. He was worth every rupiah!

* Jaipur
Managed a speed of light tour from 8 am to 7 pm... of course saw all the biggie highlights and have photos to prove it.  More importantly stayed in the best hotel in India ... Jaipur is really just another hellish huge Indian City but Sundar Palace makes the whole experience worth it.  Two brothers own and manage it, and doing an amazing job.  Beautiful, clean room with lots of hot water, towels and TP and blankets without having to beg for them, a separate area for mediation/prayer with cushions and small table, soft lights.  Roof top restaurant with yummy food under the stars. All for CND $12/night!

*Dehli
Ahh, the best laid plans! My itinerary allowed only one full sightseeing day in Dehli (had another train to catch of course) and I find out this is a Strike Day meaning all taxi and tuk tuk drivers are at a complete work stoppage. The Canadian Tourist is also at a full touring stoppage. Forced into having a slow paced day I bravely (and gleefully) accept my fate.. .  what else am I to do? Life is learning acceptance afterall.  I wandered the neighbourhood and when I purchased bangles knew I'd been in India just a tad too long!

Okay the power is about to go our (again) so must post this! Nepal is a whole new story and can't wait to share ... if you're listening (or not I guess since I have no clue who is actually following the blog - other than the faithfuls but even you could fool me! 

May you be Well
May you be Happy
May you be free of Suffering

Namaste from Varanasi

Meeting up with Suzan and Csilla today! We  have Feb 20 - 23 together then we go separate ways via train travel....

Varanasi:  experienced and learned so much here I once again can't even begin to write it all. I never know what I will see or experience next, with constant surprises and stimulation.  Here goes a short summary, certainly not complete but a taste of Varanasi nevertheless:

* sitting here at the 'internet cafe' which is essentially a bit of a shack with 3 computers, a small shop that sells bottled water and the ever present pop, and junk food snacks.  Just a moment ago a procession lead by 3 drummers in bare feet, and 3 others pulling a wagon with a freshly dead monkey (probably caught in power lines, probably that's why the power was out 2.5 hours ago) followed by 25 - 30 mourners... people on the street stop and pay homage to the monkey who is laid out beautifully and is semi covered in marigolds and looks very peaceful. 

*  the last 3 nights:  starting at 8 pm and continuing ALL night, an Indian and Nepalese Classical Music Festival.  Free. Wonderful.  Loved it and took minimal advantage of it, with my North American habit of needing to be in bed by 12 midnight!!!  I rapidly fade after 11 pm and frankly find the stimulas here too much on all levels, visual, sounds, and smells. I need to seek refuge at the hotel for regrouping and recovery!

* The Main Cremation Gnat - very aggressive energy.. have not been able to stay there for any length of time. perhaps with Suzan and Csilla I will find courage in numbers?  There are experiences there that are difficult, above and beyond the actual viewing of the cremation, including very aggressive requests for money to support the cremation gnat, however I also know it costs the families alot of money to hold a cremation there. 

* Last night was the beginning of the Shiva Celebration - and the 75 km pilgrimage started around Varanasi.  I left a musical performance - a beautiful, spiritual and peaceful environment only a few metres from the walkway along the Ganges and Gnats. To encounter a mob of young men with yellow and red painted foreheads, barefoot and stoned (hashish, betel, and whatever else) yelling, chanting, singing.  It was a shock and I had to make a transformation in my own head - between what I just left and what I was seeing and feeling in the moment. My understanding is the pilgrimage is very spiritual to Hindu's and the whole idea is to be transformed and experience great spiritual insight.   I was literally caught in the middle of this so quickly I couldn't believe it.  At the same moment my head was saying 'oh, oh this is not ok' a young guy pushes his way to me and says 'you need to get out of here, let me help you these are not good people'. (yes I know ANOTHER travel angel... jeez they are just all over the place). We were out of it in seconds and it was over for me.  The chaos continued all night with thousands of young men going along the Ganges.   Other guests in my hotel were urged not to go out last night, but to only observe from the hotel roof top patio.  Today: all is as normal (well for Varansi!!) and the temples are covered in flowers and people lined up to enter for worship.

Off I go to meet up with 2 Canadian Friends - truly a special day! 

All is well.

Fun and Overwelming Chaos... Elephants, Rino's, .. and Trains!

More snapshots from the Indian Road! Oh where to start, where to start?!   Guess it's the point form thing again, just because it's a) my  party! b) too overwhelming to do anything else and c) it's kind of fun! (for me, if not for you!) 

Note: thanks for the emails! It can  feel a little isolating on the road and I do miss my home, friend and family connection.  Confession:    Just a bit on the needy side (gasp) I tend to save your emails and re-read them on my Ipod to  'connect' with you! So - hugs to you from me!

Now here goes -  in no particular order!

* Left Belle, Gary and Ellen in Kolkata (Calcutta) Feb 14th of course they babied me right to the end, delivering me to the train station via a gouging Taxi Driver! We  travelled wonderfully together and had an amazing experience exploring parts of India and Calcutta.  (I need serveral hours to describe Calcutta, so NOT today!)

* Excurion to Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary -   5:00 am wake up call for a dawn Elephant Tour for four Canadians (2 are of the squealing nature, guess which ones?) tettering on top of a rolling, lumbering, very round and high beast.  Note: I have a video! including sound effects of course!  For a price....!  So we are talking serious safari here.  In the misty early morning grasslands and jungle, we see birds including peacocks (high in the trees!) and kingfishers (had NO idea they are soooo beautiful, and rinos, rinos, rinos(!!!), and barking deer and sambar, gaur (Indian Bison huge... 2 metres at the shoulder!)  AND tons of dangerous saber tooth tigers... (a little white lie!)

* Overnight trains:  3 to date!  The Indian Train System is simply totally impressive!  eg.  2 overnight trains one of 14  hours the other 9 hours total cost $11!   Ok one ended up a 18 hour trip due to some delays but nevertheless you get my point?  My first independent outing from Calcutta to Varanasi was heartwarming! Once again my travel angels take over as soon as Ellen, Gary and Belle abandon (!!) me at the train station!  First, on the platform - yep found my train AND AC 3 Berth car on my own.  Approached by an Indian lady who asked me if she could help? :)  Then boarding the train: helped a lady and her husband with their bags... after that they regularily checked on me from their compartment next door. Meanwhile the gentlemen across in the aisle from me, made sure my wheely beast was stored 'right', helped me with securing the above bed, and offered to share their dinner!  ah, on it goes.. I love this part of travelling, the connections we make that seem so small but are delicious and heartwarming.

* Value added Train info:  the whole experience is facinating people watching!  porters wrapping a towel in a circular turban shaped cushion on their heads, then piling on several heavy suitcases or bags and away they go... colorful saris and food; begging children and women, thin bone- rattling 'old' men; dogs and puppies who appear to live their lives in the station; extended family groupings sharing blankets and food; transvestites challenging local men for money (they are ostrocised by society but also feared, the belief is they bring bad luck so they survive by getting money to NOT lay a curse on a man!), and then the 6 berth sleepers with 10 Indian people squeezed in!

* The photos continue to build. Guesses from anyone how many to date?  Minus the videos?

*  Kolkata - Hotel Broadway is our base, with Ellen and Gary, Indian Specialist Guides!  Humm  Hotel Broadway - let's see how to describe.....  in the middle of a very busy business district, very old, very very noisy, and well established 'the real India' (as per Ellen!) mannerisms and curtesies... with 'regular room' hot water needs to be ordered in the morning or you may miss out on the shower!  A piping hot bucket is delivered to the room where you then mix with cold for an Indian Shower  (from the bucket with a dipper) love it. love it.  Very Important:  As Soon As Waking ensure you are wrapped in a sarong or dressed BECAUSE as soon as you beckon for one of the guys, it is a free for all.  Very disconcerting for North American women especially!  They walk in at any time without knocking or saying a word to see if you need:  more chai, breakfast, dinner, hot water, do you have laundry.....anything at all... ?  A pile of 10 R (aka .20 CND) notes is always at the ready for constant tipping.  The beds have 1.5" thin foam (?) mattresses.  The Canadian Princesses aka Belle and I, ensure survival by obtaining an extra mattress for our beds... it worked!!!! 

VARANASI

I am desparate to share my impressions.  I  think, because I am alone here, it is urgent to 'talk it out'  sort of like therapy?! 

This is Day 3, and I am hunkered down in my lovely hotel on the Ganges.  I am determined to stay put today as this is the 'Wedding Season' and the action starts about 7 pm or so. Music, processions, and beautiful costumes and clothing.  I will be on the streets of Varanasi the next few evenings.  The Shiva Festival is Feb 19 and 20th so must be ready for that as well..... includes an overnight pilgremage 75 kms around Varanasi of the faithful.....  

Varanasi aka The City of Light, founded by Shiva -  is one of the oldest living cities in the  world.  It is the centre of the Hindu universe and to die here is to attain instant enlightenment. It's religious life has been continusly present since sixth Century BC!

Like most North Americans, I've heard of the Ganges and Varanasi.  So, actually being here is to bring these  pictures and words to my own reality, and vague impressions to a vivid living and breathing landscape.  There ARE alot of over travellers here, like I expected.  What I didn't expect is the raw presence of Varanasi, where Indian life and death continues in spite of, and around,  'us'. 

My first evening here I met up with a Frenchman ... from France by the way!  and we shared a boat for the 'must do' trip by the 2 kms of ghats with evening cremations, accompanied by candles, chanting, music. Chidren sell small floating candle and flower arrangements for R10 and tradition is to light the candle, and make a blessing or wish as you release it to float on the Ganges.  So, as you do this your candle becomes one of hundreds gowing and floating like stars in the darkness.  I have a video, the only one I will make of the evening ceromonies as it is just not respectful or appropriate to photograph cremations.  Nor do I have any desire.  Note:  the video is very general and only captures the 'big picture' not the actual creamations.

In my wanderings along the ghats, I have come across several cremations during daylight hours.... death has become more real to me (I wonder - am I really ready to see this?) than you can imagine.  Tradition means the cremation of the deceased takes place very quickly certainly within 24 hours. Bodies are not necessarily totally wrapped in white cotton, and visually this has been shocking to my senses.  People are gathered around, friends and family, and a couple of men are in charge of building the wooden funeral pyre, placing the body on it and scattering sawdust and light burning materials on top.   Cows and dogs are wandering by or laying on the ghats, wood is piled high in neat square bundles up to 8 ' high. The smoke is heavy and hangs over the creamation ghats. 

My last attempt to observe a cremation yesterday failed dismally.... the person appeared to be very healthy, about 5 - 50 year old Indian male, draped from lower chest to mid calf.  I am not sure if I will be able or need to observe this....it is very much different than attending cremation ceromonies in Bali.  Closer, raw and intense, feels like it deeply touches both heart and soul.   There is nothing hidden here.