More snapshots from the Indian Road! Oh where to start, where to start?! Guess it's the point form thing again, just because it's a) my party! b) too overwhelming to do anything else and c) it's kind of fun! (for me, if not for you!)
Note: thanks for the emails! It can feel a little isolating on the road and I do miss my home, friend and family connection. Confession: Just a bit on the needy side (gasp) I tend to save your emails and re-read them on my Ipod to 'connect' with you! So - hugs to you from me!
Now here goes - in no particular order!
* Left Belle, Gary and Ellen in Kolkata (Calcutta) Feb 14th of course they babied me right to the end, delivering me to the train station via a gouging Taxi Driver! We travelled wonderfully together and had an amazing experience exploring parts of India and Calcutta. (I need serveral hours to describe Calcutta, so NOT today!)
* Excurion to Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary - 5:00 am wake up call for a dawn Elephant Tour for four Canadians (2 are of the squealing nature, guess which ones?) tettering on top of a rolling, lumbering, very round and high beast. Note: I have a video! including sound effects of course! For a price....! So we are talking serious safari here. In the misty early morning grasslands and jungle, we see birds including peacocks (high in the trees!) and kingfishers (had NO idea they are soooo beautiful, and rinos, rinos, rinos(!!!), and barking deer and sambar, gaur (Indian Bison huge... 2 metres at the shoulder!) AND tons of dangerous saber tooth tigers... (a little white lie!)
* Overnight trains: 3 to date! The Indian Train System is simply totally impressive! eg. 2 overnight trains one of 14 hours the other 9 hours total cost $11! Ok one ended up a 18 hour trip due to some delays but nevertheless you get my point? My first independent outing from Calcutta to Varanasi was heartwarming! Once again my travel angels take over as soon as Ellen, Gary and Belle abandon (!!) me at the train station! First, on the platform - yep found my train AND AC 3 Berth car on my own. Approached by an Indian lady who asked me if she could help? :) Then boarding the train: helped a lady and her husband with their bags... after that they regularily checked on me from their compartment next door. Meanwhile the gentlemen across in the aisle from me, made sure my wheely beast was stored 'right', helped me with securing the above bed, and offered to share their dinner! ah, on it goes.. I love this part of travelling, the connections we make that seem so small but are delicious and heartwarming.
* Value added Train info: the whole experience is facinating people watching! porters wrapping a towel in a circular turban shaped cushion on their heads, then piling on several heavy suitcases or bags and away they go... colorful saris and food; begging children and women, thin bone- rattling 'old' men; dogs and puppies who appear to live their lives in the station; extended family groupings sharing blankets and food; transvestites challenging local men for money (they are ostrocised by society but also feared, the belief is they bring bad luck so they survive by getting money to NOT lay a curse on a man!), and then the 6 berth sleepers with 10 Indian people squeezed in!
* The photos continue to build. Guesses from anyone how many to date? Minus the videos?
* Kolkata - Hotel Broadway is our base, with Ellen and Gary, Indian Specialist Guides! Humm Hotel Broadway - let's see how to describe..... in the middle of a very busy business district, very old, very very noisy, and well established 'the real India' (as per Ellen!) mannerisms and curtesies... with 'regular room' hot water needs to be ordered in the morning or you may miss out on the shower! A piping hot bucket is delivered to the room where you then mix with cold for an Indian Shower (from the bucket with a dipper) love it. love it. Very Important: As Soon As Waking ensure you are wrapped in a sarong or dressed BECAUSE as soon as you beckon for one of the guys, it is a free for all. Very disconcerting for North American women especially! They walk in at any time without knocking or saying a word to see if you need: more chai, breakfast, dinner, hot water, do you have laundry.....anything at all... ? A pile of 10 R (aka .20 CND) notes is always at the ready for constant tipping. The beds have 1.5" thin foam (?) mattresses. The Canadian Princesses aka Belle and I, ensure survival by obtaining an extra mattress for our beds... it worked!!!!
VARANASI
I am desparate to share my impressions. I think, because I am alone here, it is urgent to 'talk it out' sort of like therapy?!
This is Day 3, and I am hunkered down in my lovely hotel on the Ganges. I am determined to stay put today as this is the 'Wedding Season' and the action starts about 7 pm or so. Music, processions, and beautiful costumes and clothing. I will be on the streets of Varanasi the next few evenings. The Shiva Festival is Feb 19 and 20th so must be ready for that as well..... includes an overnight pilgremage 75 kms around Varanasi of the faithful.....
Varanasi aka The City of Light, founded by Shiva - is one of the oldest living cities in the world. It is the centre of the Hindu universe and to die here is to attain instant enlightenment. It's religious life has been continusly present since sixth Century BC!
Like most North Americans, I've heard of the Ganges and Varanasi. So, actually being here is to bring these pictures and words to my own reality, and vague impressions to a vivid living and breathing landscape. There ARE alot of over travellers here, like I expected. What I didn't expect is the raw presence of Varanasi, where Indian life and death continues in spite of, and around, 'us'.
My first evening here I met up with a Frenchman ... from France by the way! and we shared a boat for the 'must do' trip by the 2 kms of ghats with evening cremations, accompanied by candles, chanting, music. Chidren sell small floating candle and flower arrangements for R10 and tradition is to light the candle, and make a blessing or wish as you release it to float on the Ganges. So, as you do this your candle becomes one of hundreds gowing and floating like stars in the darkness. I have a video, the only one I will make of the evening ceromonies as it is just not respectful or appropriate to photograph cremations. Nor do I have any desire. Note: the video is very general and only captures the 'big picture' not the actual creamations.
In my wanderings along the ghats, I have come across several cremations during daylight hours.... death has become more real to me (I wonder - am I really ready to see this?) than you can imagine. Tradition means the cremation of the deceased takes place very quickly certainly within 24 hours. Bodies are not necessarily totally wrapped in white cotton, and visually this has been shocking to my senses. People are gathered around, friends and family, and a couple of men are in charge of building the wooden funeral pyre, placing the body on it and scattering sawdust and light burning materials on top. Cows and dogs are wandering by or laying on the ghats, wood is piled high in neat square bundles up to 8 ' high. The smoke is heavy and hangs over the creamation ghats.
My last attempt to observe a cremation yesterday failed dismally.... the person appeared to be very healthy, about 5 - 50 year old Indian male, draped from lower chest to mid calf. I am not sure if I will be able or need to observe this....it is very much different than attending cremation ceromonies in Bali. Closer, raw and intense, feels like it deeply touches both heart and soul. There is nothing hidden here.
Note: thanks for the emails! It can feel a little isolating on the road and I do miss my home, friend and family connection. Confession: Just a bit on the needy side (gasp) I tend to save your emails and re-read them on my Ipod to 'connect' with you! So - hugs to you from me!
Now here goes - in no particular order!
* Left Belle, Gary and Ellen in Kolkata (Calcutta) Feb 14th of course they babied me right to the end, delivering me to the train station via a gouging Taxi Driver! We travelled wonderfully together and had an amazing experience exploring parts of India and Calcutta. (I need serveral hours to describe Calcutta, so NOT today!)
* Excurion to Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary - 5:00 am wake up call for a dawn Elephant Tour for four Canadians (2 are of the squealing nature, guess which ones?) tettering on top of a rolling, lumbering, very round and high beast. Note: I have a video! including sound effects of course! For a price....! So we are talking serious safari here. In the misty early morning grasslands and jungle, we see birds including peacocks (high in the trees!) and kingfishers (had NO idea they are soooo beautiful, and rinos, rinos, rinos(!!!), and barking deer and sambar, gaur (Indian Bison huge... 2 metres at the shoulder!) AND tons of dangerous saber tooth tigers... (a little white lie!)
* Overnight trains: 3 to date! The Indian Train System is simply totally impressive! eg. 2 overnight trains one of 14 hours the other 9 hours total cost $11! Ok one ended up a 18 hour trip due to some delays but nevertheless you get my point? My first independent outing from Calcutta to Varanasi was heartwarming! Once again my travel angels take over as soon as Ellen, Gary and Belle abandon (!!) me at the train station! First, on the platform - yep found my train AND AC 3 Berth car on my own. Approached by an Indian lady who asked me if she could help? :) Then boarding the train: helped a lady and her husband with their bags... after that they regularily checked on me from their compartment next door. Meanwhile the gentlemen across in the aisle from me, made sure my wheely beast was stored 'right', helped me with securing the above bed, and offered to share their dinner! ah, on it goes.. I love this part of travelling, the connections we make that seem so small but are delicious and heartwarming.
* Value added Train info: the whole experience is facinating people watching! porters wrapping a towel in a circular turban shaped cushion on their heads, then piling on several heavy suitcases or bags and away they go... colorful saris and food; begging children and women, thin bone- rattling 'old' men; dogs and puppies who appear to live their lives in the station; extended family groupings sharing blankets and food; transvestites challenging local men for money (they are ostrocised by society but also feared, the belief is they bring bad luck so they survive by getting money to NOT lay a curse on a man!), and then the 6 berth sleepers with 10 Indian people squeezed in!
* The photos continue to build. Guesses from anyone how many to date? Minus the videos?
* Kolkata - Hotel Broadway is our base, with Ellen and Gary, Indian Specialist Guides! Humm Hotel Broadway - let's see how to describe..... in the middle of a very busy business district, very old, very very noisy, and well established 'the real India' (as per Ellen!) mannerisms and curtesies... with 'regular room' hot water needs to be ordered in the morning or you may miss out on the shower! A piping hot bucket is delivered to the room where you then mix with cold for an Indian Shower (from the bucket with a dipper) love it. love it. Very Important: As Soon As Waking ensure you are wrapped in a sarong or dressed BECAUSE as soon as you beckon for one of the guys, it is a free for all. Very disconcerting for North American women especially! They walk in at any time without knocking or saying a word to see if you need: more chai, breakfast, dinner, hot water, do you have laundry.....anything at all... ? A pile of 10 R (aka .20 CND) notes is always at the ready for constant tipping. The beds have 1.5" thin foam (?) mattresses. The Canadian Princesses aka Belle and I, ensure survival by obtaining an extra mattress for our beds... it worked!!!!
VARANASI
I am desparate to share my impressions. I think, because I am alone here, it is urgent to 'talk it out' sort of like therapy?!
This is Day 3, and I am hunkered down in my lovely hotel on the Ganges. I am determined to stay put today as this is the 'Wedding Season' and the action starts about 7 pm or so. Music, processions, and beautiful costumes and clothing. I will be on the streets of Varanasi the next few evenings. The Shiva Festival is Feb 19 and 20th so must be ready for that as well..... includes an overnight pilgremage 75 kms around Varanasi of the faithful.....
Varanasi aka The City of Light, founded by Shiva - is one of the oldest living cities in the world. It is the centre of the Hindu universe and to die here is to attain instant enlightenment. It's religious life has been continusly present since sixth Century BC!
Like most North Americans, I've heard of the Ganges and Varanasi. So, actually being here is to bring these pictures and words to my own reality, and vague impressions to a vivid living and breathing landscape. There ARE alot of over travellers here, like I expected. What I didn't expect is the raw presence of Varanasi, where Indian life and death continues in spite of, and around, 'us'.
My first evening here I met up with a Frenchman ... from France by the way! and we shared a boat for the 'must do' trip by the 2 kms of ghats with evening cremations, accompanied by candles, chanting, music. Chidren sell small floating candle and flower arrangements for R10 and tradition is to light the candle, and make a blessing or wish as you release it to float on the Ganges. So, as you do this your candle becomes one of hundreds gowing and floating like stars in the darkness. I have a video, the only one I will make of the evening ceromonies as it is just not respectful or appropriate to photograph cremations. Nor do I have any desire. Note: the video is very general and only captures the 'big picture' not the actual creamations.
In my wanderings along the ghats, I have come across several cremations during daylight hours.... death has become more real to me (I wonder - am I really ready to see this?) than you can imagine. Tradition means the cremation of the deceased takes place very quickly certainly within 24 hours. Bodies are not necessarily totally wrapped in white cotton, and visually this has been shocking to my senses. People are gathered around, friends and family, and a couple of men are in charge of building the wooden funeral pyre, placing the body on it and scattering sawdust and light burning materials on top. Cows and dogs are wandering by or laying on the ghats, wood is piled high in neat square bundles up to 8 ' high. The smoke is heavy and hangs over the creamation ghats.
My last attempt to observe a cremation yesterday failed dismally.... the person appeared to be very healthy, about 5 - 50 year old Indian male, draped from lower chest to mid calf. I am not sure if I will be able or need to observe this....it is very much different than attending cremation ceromonies in Bali. Closer, raw and intense, feels like it deeply touches both heart and soul. There is nothing hidden here.
So happy you are getting so many life experiences that the rest of us may never "see'.Peace & happiness.Will be waiting for you in Bangkok Love Jim
ReplyDelete