Tuesday 20 March 2012

NEPAL....CONTINUED and CONCLUDED!

Oh - Oh Where oh Where to Start?  For sure NOT at the beginning eg.  March 4!  If I had promised a chronological accounting of events and travels I would totally pass on accounting for my travels and just find myself a cold lassi (or beer)!  Here goes:

* Tsewang Visit on Saturday March 17: 

14 years old, lovely and ever so serious!  Mom died of cancer 1.5 years ago and she left her village at 8 years old.  Tsewang wants visit but it's one day by bus followed by 5 days trekking/walking... she hasn't been back since leaving 5 years ago. She has an older brother still there with his wife and children.  Tsewang is very bright and tutors other students in her Math class. 

She was very sure she 'didn't need anything' when I asked if there  was something she needed..  I ask YOU what 14 year old girl 'doesn't need anything' ????!!!  So we went 'window shopping' and well surprise surprise...  'oh look at these yoga pants..(I ask her) I Love wearing these... and they look so pretty and comfy with the hot pink band around the hips and waist'.... She agrees, yes they are verrry nice... Next question 'why don't you try them on?'  This she cannot resist, and into the change room she goes!  With some tough bargaining between the two of us we get the sales clerk down to 50% off.  Back onto the street we go.  Tsewang is thrilled with her one pair of pants.  Then I ask her if she likes the t-shirts on display in another store... she is now helpless.  In she goes and like a typical 14 year old girl anywhere she falls in love with a white top covered in HOT PINK hearts!  Following our shopping spree for a total price tag of $9 CND, we have lunch at her choice - a very small local 'restaurant' serving  Momo's.  To my surprise she orders 'buf' (buffalo/yak?) momo's, and gobbles them up like there is no tomorrow.   I am agape.  She confirms the Buddist school is vegetarian, and I am silent  I dearly hope I inadvertently have not overstepped boundaries with the school but at this point there is nothing I can do!  She eats them like there's no tomorrow! gulp.  I am quiet and assume she will be (quiet) as well.  

After the first hour and half, we start discussing all sorts of subjects and it's fun when she finally loosens up just a little (not TOO much), and shares some of her thoughts.  I also observe and appreciate her trust when she comes out of the change room to do a modest twirl to show me tops, looking with big brown eyes, questioning:   'what do you think?'.  What I REALLY think is: okkkay is that top with the hot pink hearts, and a little scoop neck gonna be ok at the Buddist School?  Instead I inquire:  humm that looks very nice on you, will you be able to wear it to school?  She enthusiastically nods her head and I defer to both her and the school to figure it out.  We go to the till... 'how much?' we ask the reply R 750.  She looks terribly shocked, shakes her head and goes 'tsk, tsk' clicking her tongue.  I play along and look appalled.  We get the price down to R 450 and dance out of the store!   Next:  she teaches me about the 108 candles on display on the streets.... if you are interested, you have to ask!!  We talk about games, she tells me about how her and her family would play cards on New Years Day and she really loved it.  Also said does not play cards at the school as it's considered gambling. But she does a lot of other activities that she loves...

*  Meeting 'Kathy' a nurse from Hong Kong:

We meet at Namobuddha and hit it off.  Very nice to have her company and learn about her (I sob) trekking experiences in Nepal.  She hopes to travel into Tibet but the political situation is not supportive right now. When the time comes to leave Namobuddha we head for an early  local bus.  We sit in billowing dust along the road, and then our bus rounds the corner. we both react at the sight of 20+ guys riding on the top and the inside is so packed people have various body parts draped out the windows.  I DON'T *&%$$ THINK SO!!! The guys on top indicate there is room for us and start shuffling themselves around to indicate their helpfulness.  They are bewildered when we decline.   

Back up the hill to hire a taxi.  VERY Expensive as  they come from Kathmandu and it takes 2 - 3 hours to travel the 40 kms, including the death defying (depends who is driving, MY betel spitting taxi driver is not recommended - see below) 8 kms pot holed, narrow, dusty and very steep trail up the mountain to Namobuddha).  We approach a jeep in the parking lot, and its monk driver asking if it's heading down the mountain... well don't ya know he is a Travel Angel (they come in all sizes and and dress you know!) and we have a ride all the way to Kathmandu, right to the door of my hotel!  No charge, but I am so pleased to make a generous donation to the monestary.

* Taxi TO Namobuddha from Bhathatpor (bad, wrong spelling but you don't know it) rapidly became a trip from hell. My previously noble, courteous, and cautious driver arranged by Lame Pema in Bouddha has suddenly turned into a betel/pan chewing and spitting manic who weaves around corners as he constantly takes calls on his cell.  I try a gentle but direct approach to reflect my nicely balanced spiritual mind following 4 days in the mountain retreat.  It doesn't last.  We narrowly miss a bus and motorbike while rounding a corner and the Buddha zone disappears and pumping 'flight or fight' adrenaline puts me securely into survival mode.  If memory serves me correctly it is possible I said something like:  " I need you to pull over and STOP NOW".  Then: " I am not paying you R25,000 to die on a road in Nepal; do you talk on the phone and chew and spit pan when the monks are with you?  (that surprised him!)  I need you to put the phone away, spit out ALL of the pan and drive safely... do we understand each other?"  Apparently we did, nevertheless I 'fired' him as soon as I arrived intact at Namobuddha, 'no please do not come to pick me up in three days, and don't call me I'll call you....'

*  Self Developed Mediation Retreat (modified for public consumption)

For sure am happy to talk and talk about my one week experience!   Just ask me.....in person.  It feels too revealing to discuss in detail in the blog.  And way too many thoughts, feelings, and experiences to share in a written form.

FYI  Vegetarian food is not always delicious or nutritionally balanced.  gulp.  That being said, a couple of the luncheon meals at Bhathatpor were really amazing.  Delivered right to my door as follows:  (little bell rings as the guy delivers the food) 7 am Breakfast (spicy beans and a momo) 12 noon, lunch; 3 pm chai tea (unfailingly delish) and 6 pm dinner. 

Retreat Schedule:   up at 6 (or so, the manager is flexable!) reading spiritual material 1 - 3 hours, journalizing 1 - 2 hours and mediation started at 10 minutes, increase by 5 minutes per session minimum 2/day.  After lunch take to the hills!  Walking for several hours on dusty roads, rocky trails and through steep fields.

In my wanderings, I encounter tribal women who are so beautiful, friendly and welcoming, and I accept their invitations to visit at the side of the road or in their front yard.   I feel such sadness and shame when I consistently decline tea and meals. I see the hurt feelings and really feel like.... (you fill in the blanks). I try to explain my delicate North American constitution, I say I must return to the monestary, make a variety of excuses and miserably fail to make them understand.  I just get SO sick if I step out of line with food and water.... The Bali  Shaman is a case in point!  Still it was a very disappointing experience for them and for me.  
I find my way to the tops of hills and see the Himalaya's! The mountains surrounding me fills my heart with such joy!  I love it, love it love it..   I sit alone for hours on the hillside gazing all around me and pledge to return for a serious trekking experience.  Nature provides the perfect worship venue - in my 'view'!  How can you get closer to God or Buddha or whoever is YOUR spiritual presence than here, in the glory and majesty of nature? 

Namobuddha is an incredible experience -  literally thousands of prayer flags and a very well established center with a Health Clinic, huge new Monestary, a school, several housing units for monks, and two guest houses. Population varies with visitors but a guess is around 400.  I am still processing seeing the inside of the  monestary - to be discussed later!).  The days are warm and beautiful with clear skies and pristine air.  The nights are so cold I simply freeze! ughhg. 

Tomorrow:   I say good bye to the two Grade One classes and a few new found friends I've met here.

I've enjoyed my visit - but I feel a lot of sadness not trekking.  Even though I promise myself to return, I still feel a profound loss of experience. No need to feel sorry for me, I am having a pity party all on my own!

Thailand on THURSDAY! Jim in Thailand on THURSDAY!!!!  YIPPPPEEEE

Oops meant to say:  will download photos asap (on Nepal time :) Good luck with THAT!

 Love and Hugs to you!





Saturday 3 March 2012

Today... Kathmandu Nepal!

SLEEP MARATHON IN PROGRESS....with

1) exhaustion after last 2 weeks travelling in India
2) recovery from a 6 day nasty episode of Traveller's... (cough) 'Tummy'.  Ok just try to spell 'diaharrah'  for heaven sake!  Then admitted defeat and took the 4 day prescribed course of antibiotics, FYI  effective within 24 hours!
3) and freezing cold anywhere but wrapped in 2 quilts and my sleeping bag by 7 pm at night!  I am on the edge of buying a wool toque and mitts.... but I'm going to be in Thailand 90 degree heat in 2.5 weeks!  CAN I tough it out?

Impressions of Nepal:   This is where 'New Age' originated I am SURE, so interesting to be here and feel Old Age Spiritualism... the prayers, chanting, humming, singing, music, red and gold Buddist robes... It has a strong sense of peace and kindness.  Lovely. 

Gone are the days of Indian Men stares, constant Madam, Madam.... buy (everything) please!  beggers crying and reaching out, Indian Men peeing, well pretty much everywhere, and overall total chaos in the cities.  Gone too, the wonderful kindnesses at the most unexpected times, eg lugging 40 lbs up a steep stairway (railway stations) and have a beautifully sari dressed lady, complete with little heels grab hold of the back to heft it up with me! Riding 'coach class' and a peasant family with not one word of English, share their meal.  Being rescued in the middle of a mob in Varansi by a young guy and his friend.  Spending hours with M.M. a young Indian lawyer discussing culture, astrology, religion, the law, and education.  Being (overly) protected on my very first solo train trip - on the platform, woman asking if I needed help, checking my ticket and confirming I am 'ok'. the guys in next berth offering me some of their dinner, and the 'conductor' constantly making sure I had everything possible for my comfort. Yes the positives outweigh the negatives, and as usual my own attitude and barriers are responsible for 90% of the negatives!

So, Nepal! Here we are with a whole different set of challenges and rewards!

* The power is out approximately 50% of the time; water is unavailable occasionally from 30" - 4 hours (I think), and both internet and wifi is undependable, there is no heat in the rooms burrr....

* frustration and grief with my left hip physical limitations - I cannot even go for a walk up a hill never mind on a 2 - 5 day trek.  Thanks to Belle the actual pain and discomfort is minimal if I don't overdo stairs or walking.  It's humbling to accept this in Nepal of all places, the hiker in me is in shock

* turning this around somewhat by thinking .." this is a temporary situation, I am no different than anyone else, so deal with it|? I have arms and legs, I have resourses and I will get better.  I promise myself I will come back to Nepal for a long trek in world famous mountains....  so there! " Ok in all honesty, the 'deal with it' part is not working, acceptance is not one of my easy virtues!

* there are two main treasures Nepal offers me:  Trekking and Spirituality.  One is out and my gift today is to look around and embrace the other.  I am now showing up and paying attention!

WARNING:
The following is Rated 'Only For Those Who Are Interested In (Sherry's) Personal Growth and Spirituality': 

*SMD School - Today I met Tsewang Diki, the 14 year old Grade 7 girl I am sponsoring!  I was upstairs in the office and Chaynga (see below) paged  her.  Within a minute she comes puffing into the office with flushed face she had sprinted down the hall to meet me!   We have a 'Date' on Saturday March 17, we'll go  shopping and out for lunch.   I had a tour of the school yesterday and today met the Vice Principle and Chaynga, a student who is currently working with Shirley (the Director) in the office. He is so excited as he will be studying in Red Deer this Fall for Grade 11 and 12, then on to university. I start working the the kids tomorrow :) :)  warm, cozy and yummy thoughts and feelings! 

*Note:  being around the school makes me miss Braden and Isaiah SO much!  Thank God they have the home and family, the food, the clothing and advantages kids here cannot take for granted.
* The children at the school/orphanage are so well taken care of, loved and fed but only because of SMD. It is not 'normal' for these kids to recieve an education, they are from the 'lowest caste'.

My Itinerary here in Nepal:

* Volunteer SMD School:   March 5 - 8; March 16 - 22

* Bhakapur - Trangu Kha Cho Ling (Buddist) Retreat:  March 9 - 12

* Namo Buddha - Guesthouse Trangu Tashi Yortse Monestary  March 13 - 15

* Depart to Bangkok, Thailand to meet my guy JIM - March 22!!!!!

Yep the standard 'Taj Smile'! and Yes I am totally as happy as I look!

Raja 'The King' in all his glory! Note little ol' me.... insignificant really!

Introducing RAJA!!!!


G'bye India....... HELLO Nepal!

FYI
I have attachment issues.  I hadn't recovered from missing Belle and Ellen, then I meet Suzan and Csilla for 3 days - loved their company which included an amazing 2 hour dawn boat trip on the Ganges - and now missing all 4 of them!!! I am becoming a co-dependent, independent soft-core non back packer... traveller UGHGG. 

Am profoundly aware of 10 days hard travel adventures not logged into blog... like for example:

* Camel Infatuation

Met Raja (The King...) with head held elegantly 15 feet above me, I tentatively (but very bravely) hold out my insignificant hand. He gently lowers his 3.5' long head wayyyy down to my level, and softly puts his massive muzzle on my hand.  Raja is in no hurry to end our brief encounter and I believe we should have a long term relationship! Forget trains, I want a CAMEL but not just any camel... only Raja has my heart. I learn camels are very intelligent, at the same level as elephants and dogs.  Raja is 9 years old but looks much younger due a posh lifestyle as a pampered 5 Star Tour Camel (ok my words), was bought at 3 years old and broken (like a horse) over a 4 month period.  This training started with hooking him up to a cart full of boulders, then 6 men hanging onto the reins for dear life while he took them for a wild ride.....now he is a huge pussy cat! 

*  Taj Mahal

Achieved a new status in my own eyes and I privately think of myself in a new light: 'she who has seen one of the 7 Wonders of The World;'  The Taj exceeded my expectations.

* INDIAN TRAINS

 I've logged approximately 2500 kms on overnight trains, from Sleeper to Air Con 2 class! Got to the point on my last trip from Jaipur to Dehli, I boarded at 2 am, threw my sleeping bag and pillow on the 'bed', tucked my wallet inside my pillow, pack under the seat, earplugs in and was asleep before the train left the station.  At 7:45 am my berth mates, an elderly Indian couple, gently tapped my shoulder speaking in Hindi.  I thought I was snoring so kindly, but resentfully smiled at them, and rolled over.  I tightly closed my eyes, wishing them to go away or hush, then heard whispering (one of my earplugs had popped out!) then they said 'Madam, Madam Dehli, Dehli..... JEEZE!!!!   Bless their hearts I could have ended up back in Calcutta if left to my own devices...

TRAIN PORTER STORY

Note to Self:   24 hour time schedules must be read carefully. I am not to be trusted, so also ask for confirmation of my time interpretation.

Barely made the Varnansie train to Jaipur, arrived 10 minutes before departure lugging a 40 lb wheely beast behind me and with a glance at 2 flights of steep stairs, packed with people, made an independent, executive decision deciding not to count on the kindness of strangers to help me.. and TOOK ON THE PORTER system!!!  If only I could have grabbed a snapshot of 'my Porter' (he got away with charging me 2x the going rate, which is a bargain considering I was about to miss my train, and for that amount of money he was MY Porter).  Now picture this:  he's at least 6 foot, weighing in at 150 lbs, dressed in bright red from head to ankle.  On his head:  a thickly wrapped red towel (matches the shirt and pants) adding another 8 - 10 inches and perfectly balanced on that is REI Wheely Beast, gliding gracefully through an ocean of Indian bodies, around food vendors, lost tourists and up and down stairs with me riding the wake behind him! for $4 I was efficiently delivered to the right platform, right train, correct car and my very own berth. He was worth every rupiah!

* Jaipur
Managed a speed of light tour from 8 am to 7 pm... of course saw all the biggie highlights and have photos to prove it.  More importantly stayed in the best hotel in India ... Jaipur is really just another hellish huge Indian City but Sundar Palace makes the whole experience worth it.  Two brothers own and manage it, and doing an amazing job.  Beautiful, clean room with lots of hot water, towels and TP and blankets without having to beg for them, a separate area for mediation/prayer with cushions and small table, soft lights.  Roof top restaurant with yummy food under the stars. All for CND $12/night!

*Dehli
Ahh, the best laid plans! My itinerary allowed only one full sightseeing day in Dehli (had another train to catch of course) and I find out this is a Strike Day meaning all taxi and tuk tuk drivers are at a complete work stoppage. The Canadian Tourist is also at a full touring stoppage. Forced into having a slow paced day I bravely (and gleefully) accept my fate.. .  what else am I to do? Life is learning acceptance afterall.  I wandered the neighbourhood and when I purchased bangles knew I'd been in India just a tad too long!

Okay the power is about to go our (again) so must post this! Nepal is a whole new story and can't wait to share ... if you're listening (or not I guess since I have no clue who is actually following the blog - other than the faithfuls but even you could fool me! 

May you be Well
May you be Happy
May you be free of Suffering