Taking Vietnam Slow and Easy...

The journey continues!  How many ways to say 'hot'??? Humm?   Humid. Wow it's really Hot and Humid. Can't believe how Hot it is. How Humid it is.. It is SO....How can we sweat so MUCH?  Whatz the temperature? Is that F or C?  How Cold is the Beer?  Is there Ice? Fruit Smoothie; Ice Made with Mineral Water?

HANOI

Several nights (lost count)  in a very sweet 'Boutique Hotel'  exploring the city morning and evening. Hiding in air-con room afternoons.  One afternoon I fade faster than Jim and he continues on his sightseeing quest... he is barely out of my sight and he hears "do you want to buy me?" from a young 'lady'.  He doesn't even look at her (he says) and said "No Thanks" (he says!) and she replies woefully "But Why Not?"  Offers of 'boom - boom' or marijuana are constant for him.  Me? Occasionally asked if I want pot, and other than the (very) odd proposal for a 'nice motorcycle ride' , or a long lingering hand shake and equally long gaze (??!!!) that's it!

Was super to see Uncle Ho (aka Ho Chi Minh deceased 1975) once again for me, but Jim's first visit.  He's keeping very well and I was shocked to see how much better he looks than 1997, gained some weight in his face and coloring is good, if a little waxy.  Gosh what do you expect after 30 dead years?  He takes a break from the mausoleun for 3 months every year restoration work, in Russia.  Visiting him is a very solomn occasion, hats off, serious face on.  The 4 guards surrounding his body are all in white, and standing still as statues.  Jim had to control the urge to moan, 'Oh No It's True he is Really Gone', and fall sobbing, to his knees.  In this event, my role was to console him, pat his back and tell others (including guards)  'he's been like this since 1975, now he finally has to face it....'  Needless to say we controlled ourselves. 

Night Market area - very Ho Hum.   SE Asian Markets really are looking all the same-same.  Winners: Mo Chit (Bangkok) and home of Jimmy Choo knock off hand bags and everything else imaginable (and unimaginable) in literally acres of stalls.  Ellen and Belle: would compete with that overwhelming market in Goa, believe it or not.  I've actually been back to Mo Chit 3X!!!!!  I know where the best grilled Chicken Wrap is on the street AND that you must buy Mangosteen's from the lady with big cart at the NE Gate by 12 noon or she's sold out and gone. Oh, yes and we know where the Market Police Office is, and have met several undercover agents (when Jim's day backpack was lifted).  The other very enjoyable market is the Textile Market in Laos.

Early morning e.g. 5:45 - 8 am Democratic Communist Party announcements and music broadcast on loud speakers in the Old Quarter is not our favorite way to wake up in the morning.

HALONG BAY

NOTE: Please assume all Busses in SE Asia say Air Con but really are not, that the seats are plastic and uncomfortable and are painfully slow.  This trip is standard issue only THIS time we are dropped off at the side of a busy highway (as opposed to the middle of a large community with no clue where we are) in the middle of nowhere, with no clue where we are.  

 5 - 7 motor bikes and their have-to-earn- a-Dong owners (all are crouched under the only tree... by the side of the road) eagerly surround us, offering to load a wheely and one of us on one motor bike.  Jim looks doubtful, and I am astounded, and both of us look confused.  Meanwhile two drivers confidently grabs one 20 Kg whe appear in a state of confusion.  Yeah, right!  It WAS funny watching them trying to figure out Where Will this Go and How Do I Get it There!!! First, they try to balance it on the back seat, but cannot for the life of them find even 2" to squeeze a passenger. Then one driver somehow struggles with my bag and balances it on the front of the bike, between him and the handlebars. Only problem is he can't SEE over it nor can he hang on to both handles and the beast at the same time!!!  Nevertheless he beams confidently at me!  We finally agree to hire FOUR motorbikes, one each for us and each Wheely has their own! And off we go in convoy style. Only issue:   we have Vietnamese Motorbike Drivers.  And we are cowardly North Americans.  We find ourselves tettering down a busy,one-wayroad, going the wrong way and crowding the cement barriers in a very close and personal manner.  Broke into a fearful sweat with this ride!

Then the hotel. Oh what a story. This got real old real fast!  PS signs everywhere 'No Smoking'.  But every room has an ashtray and when Room #1  reeked of cig smoke, we inquire 'smoking room?' and point to No Smoking sign.  She warmly smiles at us and says reassuringly 'no problem' and shows us the ashtray!  Room #2  carpet filthy and reeking of mold Room #3 Air Con doesn't work and finally The Winner!!!  Behind Door #4 a barely acceptable room!!! We were so happy to leave this hotel it was one time we left someplace...on time!!!

Halong Bay-us kayaking through a tunnel

World Heritage Site:  3000 limestone 'karsts' scattered in turquoise water, mystical and magical and beautiful.  And even in the 'off season' appallingly touristy and busy in Halong Bay.  We took a full day trip and separated from the larger 30-person group for the afternoon. This was the best part ever - we cruised thru the karsts, eventually ending up on a dreamy white sand beach in crystal clear (and clean!) green water. Wow. Wow.



Captured jelly fish (on Jim's oar)... swim anyone?!

Snippet: as we cruise up to a Floating Fishing Village (as touted by tourist brochures) to kayak, we are asked if we what to explore the 'caves', and if so we need to pay a 'Park Fee' of 5,000 Dong each. When we declined, we were then advised we could only take the kayaks around the boats! We agreed and off we went...to the caves. Which we thoroughly explored, and laughed with the 2 other uncompliant kayakers who followed suit.  We happily return to our boat, along side the 'guide' that told us we needed to pay extra  (she was bringing back the 6 or 7 innocent victims who DID pay), and that was it.

Moral: do not believe everything you are told! Everyone here needs to, and so has learned, to develop as many diverse ways as possible to make a buck.   People serving food can also take you out tomorrow for a motorcyle tour, or their best friend/brother/aunt is very good AND available to (fill in the blanks) ... take you on a boat tour, find a handicraft shop, sell you a t-shirt, feed you real VN food.... on and on.

This beautiful warm smile is for the teeny tiny Canadian flag pin on her sweater!!!

From Hue, we hire a Dragon Boat that starts the motor with an old hand crank.  We originally asked for a tour the opposite way from all the sightseeing tour everyone goes on, but the tour people said 'no, because (various reasons, the river narrows, sandbars, nothing to see...) So we agree to a 5 hour trip, get on the boat  in early morn and proceed to tell the driver we want to go the OTHER direction.  He looks a litte confused but agrees and we had the best time ever.  Through non-touristy areas including fishing villages, rice fields, by original narrow and tumbling buildings, waving at small surprised children screaming 'hi, helwo,!'..  

 

Don't you love how she keeps dry?! Ingenious.

Note Tribal tatoo (forehead) This lady was her son's skipper, and had at least 50 linen shirts neatly piled in plastic bags, book marks, small paintings and drawings, small carvings, an ice cooler with beer (offered at 7:30 am!! does she think we are Auzzies or something?) and on and on.  She was lovely until she realized we were not buying anything. Then not so friendly.

Jim:  DMZ Vinh Moc Tunnels - a coastal village went underground for 4 years during American bombing, included a 'maternity room' (6 babies born in 2 yrs), meeting room and bedrooms in 2 kms of tunnels.

The Flag is EVERYWHERE as is VN Communist Party propaganda posters.

Over and out for now, onward to Saigon/Ho Chi Ming City now. We have a flight which is so amazing. 1 hour 10 minutes vs hard core travelling by bus or train or combination for minimum 24 hours. sigh bliss. To be continued soon.

NEWSFLASH! We are booked out of Bangkok on June 12 via Korea arriving about 30 hours later in Seattle... on June 12 go figure.  We'll see you SOON! Love Jim and Sherry

TYING UP THAILAND

  Sukhoyhai, Thailand

Thailand Bus photo:  The Driver 'thou shalt not pee'!

Soi Cowboy, Bangkok

DAY 'ON-OFF' TOUR  BOAT

For < $5 you  get on/off wherever, explore whatever sights then catch it for the next PAS (pretty amazing spot).  And of course given Bangkok's transportation system, the MRT connects to the dock.  Righteous tourist sites and even enjoyably explored... 

* Siriraj Medical Museum -   abit disconcerting with it's displays of pickled body parts, and in the case of fetuses the whole body, then there are the stripped down veins.. ugh you get the picture (Opinion:  it's a 'miss')

* The Grand Palace - built 1782

* Wat Pho -  46' Reclining Buddha - opinion 'must see'

* Wat Phra Kaeo the Temple of the Golden Buddhas', an icon of carved jade and with seasonal robes changed 3 times a year to match the 'season' by his Majesty the King.  Opinion:  Fantastic. Dealing with the millions of 99% 4' 2" Asian people all in tour groups of 60 and all with umbrellas not so fun!

* Street Market on way to Grand Palace.. hum.  Some unhappy sights here (photos below) makes Canadian and American people scowl....
The real positives:  herbal remedies and salves, good food, and interesting old metals and coins for sale.

 Includes Tiger teeth. 

*Chinatown - Opinion 'Fantastic' dinner 'cheap, fresh and delish'



Thailand's New Year - April 13 - 16 FUN and celebrated as a water festival.  Means water water everywhere sprayed, poured, and thrown over other people - walking, cycling, boating, and riding in tuk-tuks or cars, taxi's, trucks.... You've
got the general idea.  Getting doused with water and painted white is good luck.  Total fun, different from India and Nepal.  Didn't see the level of aggression here. 

   Lots of good luck!

LUANG PRABANG, LAOS

Ho-hum yet another boring bus ride story. Not to worry no gory details here just objective facts and figures. Vientiane to Luang Prabang:  384 kms, estimated time: 10 hours; actual time 12 hours.  Scenery: out of this world, misty mountains, green jungle, little village after .. little indigenous village, multiple river crossings. Bus:  tired and had tummy ache.  Several unscheduled stops where the thin, wirey bus 'assistant' would dive into the innards, wrench in hand and ciggarette gripped firmly in mouth.  He would emerge a little more greasy, sweat stained, 5 - 20 minutes later and off we'd limp again. The steep hills were the issue.   Strolling cows and walking small children could pass us with no problem. We were great on the downhill.

Am in love with this wonderful, sedate, and friendly city way in the mountains North of Vientiane.

Early morning fresh egg delivery outside our 'Boutique Hotel'



Jim searching for lunch on the Mekong!



Renting a cruiser bike - we choose silver which is gender neutral - Jim not eager for hot pink cruiser! 

And we wander all over town, happily sight seeing and seeking river side cafes for cold juice/beer when the heat is too.... hot.  Will never ever forget going through the night textile market - a woman friendly event at least a km long with hundreds of small stalls - and cycling 'home' at 11 pm weaving through tuk-tuks, other bikes, scooters, and people wandering. Past 3 beautiful Buddhist Wats trimmed in Gold and colored rich red.  Frangipangi blossoms pumping out their exotic perfume. Skirt flapping in the warm breeze (think very European!),  hand bag slung over my shoulder and fresh chocolate and mango crepe safely riding in the wire basket!   Sherry's Bliss.  da da daaaa I Could Have Peddled All Night.. DAaaaa! 

Bamboo 'dry season' bridge crossing.  I set up the camera on delay. Run to get in the photo. Sit on the railing. Railing drops and cracks. Jim runs to rescue me!!!! 



view of said bridge!



Mekong River Boat Cruise

Wonderful!  2 hours up river, one hour return... past small villages, watching children slide down sand banks and swimming in the river, fishermen throwing nets.  This brown river supports so much life along it's course.. and we wonder how the next generations will make a living.  Resource management is not even on the radar for these countries, and reports of significantly decreased harvests over the last 20 years resound throughout Laos, Northern Thailand and expect Vietnam is the same. 

We stop Ban Xang Hai, a community that produced Rice Whisky  (yes, it's good!) with a speciality of Cobra or Scorpian pickled in the bottle...see below!



Pakou Caves

Cruise destination, and the Lonely Planet really buggered this one up.  We dressed with our best footwear to manage the 'slippery, steep, dark stairs' that go up to the 'dramatic limestone cliffs', and 'bring a torch'.  Big let down, the stairs are managable in thongs, there is no cave to speak of... and limestone may be present but is no more outstanding than the scenery surrounding the area.  There you go. 

Ethnic Fashion Show With Happy Hour!

Royal Palace Tour - not photos allowed, too bad was interesting....and

Buddhist Wat View of Luang Prabang

Street Shot, on Wat Entrance Stairs...



May 10, 2012   HELLO HANOI!


 Luang Prabang, Laos

Ditched the 23 hour, and 1200 kms, sweaty bus from Luang Prabang to Hanoi, and a challenging border crossing (eg. scams and 'extra' costs). For a 55 minute Vietnam Airways comfy flight ... hum.  Cost:  $45 more per person than the bus and oh! to arrive clean and cool as a cuke vs sweat drenched, spotted and dirty; rested vs exhausted, and with cognitive functioning intact vs stunned, confused, and emotionally fragile!!!!

Out for dinner first night in town:  street food anyone?  hum.. we passed on this yummy entree, dog intestine. We can officially be called failures - the only exotic food thus far:  Crispy (fried) Frog

Hanoi!!! Entrancing.  After sedate Luang Prabang to utter street chaos!  We are in the Perfect Hanoi Location, the Old Quarter.  10 pm last night scooters with up to 4 people perched on the seat, zipping around carts piled with !??! everything imaginable, street vendors selling all variety of food.  We are just a tad hypnotized, mesmerized and thrilled.  It's hard to go back to the hotel room to bed with all this action going on 24 - 7. What ARE they all doing out there?  Why are they doing it?   Where are they going?  Questions:  Do they work tomorrow? Obligations at 7 am? A schedule that MIGHT be in conflict of being up so late on a school night?  Why is it so much more fun, interesting and noisier than Vancouver?

SAWADEE AND LOVE FROM LAOS

Once again, in no particular chronological order!

SCLEROTHERAPY Experience:

Bangkok 3 weeks ago $60 and an hour later treatment completed. Where o where IS Sherry the RC? I didn't ask nor had any idea that part of the treatment plan is wearing a very (very) tight elastic 'stocking' from toes to thigh for 24 hours/day and duration of minimun 8 days! And of course the post-treatment day we had the visa run to Cambodia.... more on that later. 'nough to say it was not the most comfy experience which (if you have any empathy whatsoever) you'll understand as you read the Cambodian Border Hellish Experience... soon to come in this blog.

But more importantly, the ugly distracting (to me) vein on my right leg below my knee (just to my left) is now a mere faint shadow of it's former self. I am SO pleased, and for a small fraction of NA costs. Never mind the elastic tourniquet choking off all major arteries on right side of body. Forgot the 100 degree heat and 99% humidity discomfort for 8 days. Oh and the little Asian female whippets glancing (repeatedly) at my two massive NA legs, one darkly tanned and the other with 'flesh - pale pink -toned' thick wrapping as far as the eye can see....


CAMBODIA HELLISH VISA RUN

Up at 6 am to hunt down the Mini Bus. You've heard about how easy Thailand is, you know the 'no problem in Thailand EVERYONE speaks ENGLISH' Well I will say they are travelling in a different country than we are. OUR Thailand native speakers are (occasionally) fluent with 'hi, hewo, than you, velcome', and with smiling and bowing. As soon as we desparately need something, even these people are no where to be seen.

We wander around Victory Monument, where the internet info tells us to go. Here I need to clarify something. Perhaps you visulize a sedate area, maybe a block long, a two lane treed street and gentle traffic flow, with a nice big sign in English stating CAMBODIA MINI BUS HERE!?

The reality: a huge area with countless lanes of traffic - 89% of them white Toyota minivans - around a central park with Victory Monument gratefully secure in the middle. No running or walking across the street here. Nope. Everytime we need to cross one of the dozen intersections of 4 - 6 lanes each, up a couple of flights of stairs for the pedestrian overpass, down the other side. By the third one, I am whining 'I don't think this is what Dr. ____ meant when she said I can stroll in air conditioned malls'..... my leg is aching (whine)'.

Then try to ask SOMEONE about the bus. We are either met with blank confused stares or sent in circles by well meaning non-basic English speaking Thai's. Finally we ask one of Thailands 2,000,000 tranvistie's, sitting at a small sidewalk table and looking more femine and lovely than I ever have (but with a very deep voice, MY voice is better). 1.5 hours later we are on our mini-bus. Sweaty and pathetically grateful and relieved.

4 hours later at high noon we arrive at the border. Now we are in for a treat, but hey we've done Nicaragua! We are much better prepared psychologically than the other Cambodian Border newbies. First is the severe difference between the two countries. It really is another world and you can literally see the level of Cambodian poverty by glancing from Thailand at the border.

First we are told by an 'experienced' American backpacker 'this is the WORSE border crossing, watch out for scams, touts, etc. OK he's never been to Central America! At the first stop Customs tries to shake us down for an extra $5. A firm 'no' and point at the sign above the counter stating the real cost takes care of the issue.

Out the door and Jim skips, I limp, to the extensive line up going back into Thailand. We stand, we continue to stand. After 45 minutes I snarl at a French couple that think they are going to sneak in front of us. Not. Then, it's a huge success when the line moves 10 feet, enough to put us in some shade. The French remain defeated and find a niche behind us. An expat in front of us says with great expertise 'this is about 2 hours'. Being here is Nirvana, the temperature drops to at least 95 F. Then we see dark clouds forming. The wind picks up. Thunder roars. Thailand staff hustles everyone under the overhang (which we notice has multiple holes in it). It starts to POUR like it only can in the tropics. Suddenly they get our group into the building and we think 'gosh this is great, we're going to be out of here soon'.

HA! I move through quickly, but Jim just happens to get Ms. Efficient Thailand who notices his passport is missing a stamp or two checking him out of Cambodia. We are sent BACK TO CAMBODIA! With an umbrella. I am now beyond whining. I am just thinking 'suck it up buttercup' and ignore the leg. The rain is a relief, the puddles are suspicious. 'What WAS that floating there?' Don't look closely. Hum too bad Jim wore sandles.

Another line up. Then a Second Line up. We meet with (some) sympathy with other travellers who say 'oh this happens to everyone on their first time through!' Back to Thailand. We are on the mini bus by 5:30 pm. Now we have an unmotivated bus. This driver is more interested in his IPhone and picking up any waif lounging along the highway than anything else. He also likes to stop for no particular reason... disappearing into various buildings for....???? We are a defeated group. At this point we are so passive there are few comments. Arrival in Bangkok by 9 pm..... Some interesting posters at the Border

1) at Thailand Immigration office

2) Cambodia Immigration sign, another focussed on child prostitution

3) and we're complaining about standing in the hot sun!

Various Signs in recent travels brings a bit of a smile or questioning look:

(India) Government Forms and Document (a huge) Building in Calcutta

(Thailand) Anti-Money Laudering Building in Bangkok (also large!)

(Thailand) Anti-Corruption Building in Bangkok

Laos Signs in National Museum

Frequent references to 'Puppets of the United States Government' and The People's Liberation Party !

LAO NATIONAL MUSEUM

Located in a French era (built in 1925) building in Vientiane, it retains the revolutionary zeal of PLA. Very interesting displays and well worth visiting, even without modern ventilation or air con. Good section on the Plain of Jars - 2 of them are on display. Our itenerary includes a trip to this area in Northwestern Laos where hundreds of these large stone jars are scattered on the plains, they are estimated as 2000 years old. They were possibly used for burials. This area is one of the most heavily bombed in Laos during the Vietnam War, and remains a very dangerous zone for unexploded Ordenances (UXO's)). One display showed an infant's burial jar, with tiny bronze wrist and ankle bracelettes and was heavily weighted with beautiful glass beads. The inference is the child was either from a very wealthy family or was much loved, demonstrated by the riches accompaning her.

BUS TRIP TO LAOS

I need to spend a little bit of time describing a our all day trip from to the border of Pak Chong, Thailand to Laos:

Another hellish bus trip through Thailand... jeez why o why do we not get the big air con busses with the softie, lumbar supported seats? I swear to God or Buddha I lost at least 10 L of water in sweating. No exaggaration either. Now THIS bus had vacant seats when we got on, which is always a positive sign. But they were 2/3 the size required by the average North American butt... and kind of how do I say it... slippery.. as in plastic-like. And it LOOKED like air conditioning. We never did find out for sure as we adjusted the little blow thingie's to no avail. It may have been the issue of stuffing the bus with as many bodies as possible. This means the entire aisle is jammed from back to front. You've seen cans of sardines? Well that is basically it only light a match under the can and let them stew for 9 - 12 hours. Thats us,and 50 other people. 

Then there is the story of TO PEE OR NOT TO PEE, this is the question... On the road for 3.5 hours and the bus stops for a maximum of 2.3 seconds to allow some fortunate soul to leap off the vehicle, snatching their bag on the way out, and landing feet up at the side of the road.  We stop again, this time in the parking lot of a bus depot... but not in a stall or in any way appearing to stay more than 2.3 seconds. The bus remains running.  No one even twitches to make a move off the bus.... the driver however jumps out, lights a smoke... and Jim takes this opportunity to cautiously leave the bus.  He approaches the driver.. gestures to him 'toilet'.  Driver looks abit put out but points him to the appropriate direction... YIPEE I am off the bus in a flash. Like who needs this as much of not more I ask you?  This is a different story. He firmly shakes his head 'no' I cannot go!!!  OK you maybe you can tell an obedient Thai lady no, but it is not working for a NA woman.  I insist.  He almost jumps up and down in his fury.... I cross my arms.  TOILET I say.... he finally breaks and off I go.  AH it was worth the battle. I hold my ground and head high for all woman kind. 

As you can see Jim is somewhat content....!

I was so bitchy by the time we got to the hotel (on the 100 F degree heated bus from 7 am to 6:30 pm got up at 6 am of course. ) that I nearly pyhsically attacked the two waiters last night that tried to tell me they did not have even ONE COCKTAIL on the freakin menu! nor did they know one freakin word of English. I read the menu and it showed one whole big page of colorful, yummy and frosty margaritas, G and T, Mojitoes.... and to be told I couldn't have even ONE threw me into some kind of a tantrum/melt down!

Ooops guess you could tell I (we ) were a little frazzled!!! We spent the rest of the night trying to suck up to them after feeling stupid for being so... stupid! So we ordered our dinner which was one of the best in Thailand.

THEN we decided on ice cream, and of course now we are more aware of the operational hazards in the Restaurant... the menu showed 2 full pages of ice cream including strawberry, blueberry, 3 chocolates, green tea... on and on. So, we smile and order and ask 'is this ok? do you have this' and the head bobbing and body bowing, and smiles were approving and neverending. NOTE: Thai's really really do not like to displease anyone, and are totally agreeable rather than say, 'no', hence it leads to all sorts of interpersonal relationship issues with foreigners.... so we sit down and sure enough, here they come. Now they are approaching us in groups of at least two people. No ice cream that we ordered. So out comes the menu again. Out of 16 varieties of ice cream they actually have 3. All is well, we order one of the three and everyone is smiling and agreeable!

Note: We ARE in Laos, and this will be Continued.....soon

Love to all :)

By the way we just got back from dinner with dessert of MANGO PIE and Vanilla Ice Cream - in the low 80's and very pleasant....

Last night we went for dinner and then took our 'Happy Hour' drinks To Go in large paper cups to wander through the Vientiene Night Market. Ah life is sweet!

Leaving for Northern points, to Luang Prabang of course early morning bus - 11 hours (humm we'll see!). This is the ancient capital of Laos, a world heritage site..... stay tuned!

HERE'S TO - TWO TRYSTING IN THAILAND!

BANGKOK

Think New York City, superimposed into Asia! Very fun  and we've wandered for hours exploring the awesome transportation system with MRT (Metro Rail) and sky train. And tuk tuk and taxi, AND boat trips on the river.

* Yummy street food our fav:  chicken and pork satay, safe and North American friendly....We agree to challenge our comfort zone a little:   include unique tidbits like grilled or deep fried beetles, ants, and grubs. Looking for snake steak too. The deal is we buy a diverse selection e.g. a few of each for each of us to fight over.  Stay tuned.   On a brave day. Soon.

* EVERYWHERE:   there are fashionable, thin, teeny tiny people.   Thousands of them, like graceful and lovely ants.  The females have an average BMI of .2% body fat, I swear they DO NOT SWEAT.  Perfect make-up, dark hair sleek and shining, and falling gracefully around shoulders.  They stroll through the malls, metro and sidewalks teetering confidently on 7" Jimmy Choos worth my (current) annual income, lovingly clinging to a metrosexual boyfriend  ever so casually attaired head to pointy toe in  Gucci... they smile prettily at the boyfriend while daintly texting on the newest Apple IPOD 5, with a perfectly manicured left hand, baby finger only.   I am amazed at the sight. It's like visiting another planet. I want to ask:  'how did THIS happen to you?'   "How do you DO it?"  "Is it, like a full time job?"  Wow.... And if they happen to look my way I'm sure they would think the same thing about me!

Shopping:  See my Jimmy Choo's hand bags?   No? Well you will! 

FYI   Fashion coming to you soon:  sheer tinted material loose fitting tunic tops over dresses, tights, etc, and see through skirts from nylon or lacy material over mini or shorter skirts.  That's all I've noticed to date... more (maybe) to come!

* Gee we're glad to be travel savvy, experienced travellers - to date we've been pick-pocketed two times:  My (sob) IPOD in Nepal and Jim's  new REI day pack at Mo Chit, Bangkok's biggest weekend market.   We ARE smart enough to NOT have our wallets,, passports, camera, and Jim's IPOD in the pack.

* Bangkok's Mercy Hospital:  casually wandered in to have Jim's lipoma (benign tumor on his back) assessed by a surgeon, just a vague thought of POSSIBLY accessing medical services here.   For us it is a preliminary exploration only. Unknown to us, it is serious business... as soon as we cross the threshold we are sucked into a vortex of Thai hospitality, tourism health care industry and health care professionals at our beck and call .  Sooner than you can say 'Mastercard' Jim finds himself strapped into a wheelchair and in the OR  - within 2 hours.


Post-op:   I personally think he suits robin egg blue and should have been a Doctor!

There was no waiting, the beautifully dressed and made-up greeter pounced on us and had Jim's name, passport copy, hotel information and Jim's medical 'issue' fully documented before the sweat dried on our shirts.  We were advised he could see the surgeon immediately. And he did.  His savings for the proceedure: about 30% USD (estimate was $3000, Jim's total here $900)
Me: I had zero intentions of doing anything. But Busy Mouth Jim in Surgery just happened to mention an issue with a my back molar... and Four hours later I've consulted with a skin specialist re a varicous vein on my leg (treatment about 30% of Canada's) and assessed by a dentist, complete with Xray on my troublesome tooth.. total cost $17. Jim is out of surgery....  And we find our selves back out on the street slightly bewildered,farily impressed, and several dollars lighter.

So.. we explore a local market.... 3 blocks from the hospital look what we find!
Gee I think I want chicken satay thanks....



These I like these much more... sweet yummy pineapple!



WOMEN'S PRISON FOOT MASSAGE

The Thai Princess is instrumental in setting up the women's program including a restaurant  (cooking and serving, and massage clinic.  Inmates attend a 2 month Thai Massage course the last 4 months of their sentence they work in the massage clinic.  They earn 50% of the fee which goes towards a fund for their release.  It was a very fun - and majorly refreshing after a hot sweaty day on a heritage walk in the downtown city area.  Have to admit to great reservations regarding full body or back or neck or ..... massage.  In my book 2 months of superficial massage training does not qualify ANYONE to crack my bones, manipulate joints and prod nerves!

  

.Overnight Train:  from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.  we have no idea what happened in the middle of
the night but our arrival in Chiang Mai was over 2 hours late and 15 hours after departing Bangkok.
Beds: the bottom bunk mattress was almost a full regular sized single bed! And the mattresses are at
least twice as thick as India trains   Almost as good but no chai tea and no transvisties shaking down
 the local men for a pay off to get rid of them  We totally got the giggles when breakfast time comes
along and we start peparing our meal. The very polite and proper middle aged lady sitting across
 from us was astounded by our performance and self contained equipment and food:
*  first, my handy dandy electical water wand, (thanks Suzan, it's STILL working!) plugged into an outlet near the floor and within seconds
* water is bubbling happily in my MEC stainless steel coffee pot
* water effeciently mixed with instant coffee
* followed by two folded tupperwear bowls  being popped open on the table, with a folding spoon
also clicked open
*  pour in Muesli cereal, topped with instant milk,, dribble half cup of water and mix.
* Sliced bananas, peeled oranges, and a few mangostene
* a few yummy danish items - making sure we're not TOO healthy

Good thing we didn't need to take out the steripen to water filter!!!! 

and onward we go, for hours and hours passing perfect little train stops, with flower pots, neat walkways and buildings.  I often think of Isaiah - the train guy in the family! He would love the trip!

Here is Jim sitting by a lovely view - happy in Second Class Air Con, Berth -  thanks much!



CHAING MAI


Portable bar - fully equipped with ice, all variety of liquer and mixes even with fresh limes and mint
leaves for a Mojeto.. little wooden stools to seat 10 -12 patrons gathered around the back of the pick up.  Totally fun, nice vibe with music playing and patio lights draped oround the roof.  Enjoyed visiting with 4 travellers from Switzerland, with their opening comment to the bartender:  "we've been looing for the bar! you moved it 40 meters down the street'! before they settled on a stool and made themselves at home!

 

ELEPHANT TOUR

Oh, I have lots to say about this! Many thoughts about our visit with the elephants.  Jim was thrilled with the whole experience and his thoughts are that the elephants are being well cared for, and learning tricks like playing soccer, sitting down like a teddy bear on their hind quarters, performing like Gumbo, and having tourists sit on their trunks, etc is good for them. Learning tricks and performing is much better for them than being idle.  And they are SO smart!!!  It is amazing to see what they can learn and do. 



A two year old baby - how adorable can he be?



My thoughts - these incredible, powerful, very intelligent mammals have been abused for centuries, and their population is rapidly decreasing.  I wouldn't want to guess how many are left in the wild.  Unfortunately I believe the only way they will survive as a species IS in captivity or in protected national parks (even then poaching continues).  It bothers me to see them chained, pacing on the spot back and forth repeatedly...  performing tricks on command, and having tourists (including me ride them, maul them, treat them as a circus side show).  Where and how do we draw the line?  There are several Elephant Camps that say they are educating people about elephants and their needs, and do not have them perform tricks or any of the other aspects of exploting them. They charge a lot of money so it's difficult to support their efforts and I would still wonder if it REALLY is humane?   However, elephants clearly need protection from us, and to live  they require a ton of food each day, and food costs money, and money comes from people, and so elephants work for people to earn money to feed themselves. ugh I get it.

But I want them all to be free, in the jungle, safe from poachers but be able to see them in the wild, living in their community like they are meant to be. I would be happy to give up the ride, the paintings, sitting on their knees, seeing them play soccer please Santa can I have elephants freed this year for Christmas?  Oh and tigers too. please.

ELEPHANT ARTIST - PAINTINGS ARE SOLD STARTING AT $30/EACH.   IF only I could paint half as well! Proceeds go to the expense of elephant care.






Sailor Jim - steering the raft - briefly! Tally HO!

ORCHID FARM
So pretty! So many photos!  Thinking of Brenda and John Davis, both of whom love orchids.... my favourite photo:

KAYAN LONG NECKED TRIBE

Burmase refugees -  The women wear heavy brass coils starting about age 7 as a beauty statement.  The coils depress the collar bone and rib cage, which makes their necks look unnaturally long.  The women take them off at will and their seems to be no health issues associated with wearing them.  The Kayan villages rely on tourism to survive. 

I gave feedback to the tour guide about the village and way the shops are set up and the goods they are trying to sell.   She promised to pass the information on to the village and to hopefully help.  There are about 25 little shops, which are open on 3 sides with a bamboo roof covering them. Each shop sells exactly the same scarves and other souveniers, with no variety in design, color, or fabric. 
Good thing we're only here for a few days! It would be an amazing project to work with the women and figure out what some options might be.  They are lovely, quiet and gentle people who desparately need help.  The families depend on the women selling to tourists and the men working as labourers for the Thais.

Nepal - Completing the Conclusion!!!!

Having a nagging sense of a job not well done? Yep that's me - with haunting and lingering events, thoughts and feelings about my Nepal visit:

The bus from Namobuddha, the generous offer of seats that Kathy and I declined!

Namobuddha, young monks lining up for a photo shoot. The youngest could not wait to crowd in for a North American Hug!
* Flu - like symptoms (similar to what the children had at school! Perhaps will share with Jim?) the last two days in Nepal sere a little challenging, missed two classes

* Last day of school:  Tswang caught me as I was leaving.  A big 'good-by', with gifts of a hand made bracelete, a red string blessing 'necklace' and a beautiful hand drawn card and even more lovely - a warm hug and smile....

Restaurant:   buff momo's with Tsewang!!!!

*  Choruses of 'thank you SHERRIEEE, and Good Bye SHERRIEE from two classes of Grade One students followed me out the door!

*  Went to the school at 5 pm to see if Shirley was around (she flew in the afternoon before I left), as I was leaving I hear above me, 3rd floor of the boarding home:  It's Sherriee! Sheriee!!!! from one of the guys, and within 2 seconds two floors of balconies are loaded with 10 - 14 students each waving and screaming 'hello','come back', and 'good-bye'!!  I couldn't help smiling and laughing at them, what a greeting! What a warm good-bye! 

* One of those memories that stick with me:  The Grade One classes write exams for admittance into Grade 2 consisting of  5 Subjects with each being 2.5 hours long.   Miss Poulsbo (teacher) posts the exam schedule on the cork board  18 students crowd around it... one little girl about 7 years old is beside a larger 12 year old - they look at each other in delight.  They are soooo happy!  Why? I ask.  The little one looks at me with round brown eyes and very seriously explains:  the Nepalese exam is scheduled on the last day, that is so good because it is very very difficult...(extra study time!)

* Am very happy I visited Nepal and am so lucky I spent time at the school.  In terms of the little bit of money I'm donating in support of one student's future - it could not go to a better place = Happy Heart!  Their education and care is excellent.

* IPOD - 'walked' away... no longer in my possession.  Perhaps a lesson in non-attachment?  Oh the suffering though! Life continues but it is rather sobering to realize how much I still reach for it every day.  Am I in a better position being the 'victim' of theft than the thief though?  Maybe every time someone admires his/her (MY) IPOD they will get a pang of guilt?  I think so. 

* MY Impression of Nepal:  a country surviving in helpless apathy, living with a pervasive sense of mild depression, people with hearts of kindness and warmth, so many NGO's they seem to overlap in services (how much money comes in and where does it really really go???).

The roads are apalling, public education just as bad, and air pollution in Kathmandu Valley competes with India (and a recent study states India's air is worse than China's).  People talk about the overwhelming government corruption here as well. How to change it?  Very difficult. No wonder people feel so helpless.   

Tibet is  so close here.  For one week around the Boudha Stupa police presence was thick as fleas on an Indonesian street dog, due to anniversary of Tibetian political situation. They were dressed in full riot gear - and this is a Buddist spiritual centre!!!!  Word on the street is they were arresting some of the monks. Go figure.  People whisper, they do not speak out loud.  Free Speech is not a right. 

Violence against women stats are terrible and of course the real figures would be much worse.  One young woman, married for 2 years with a 1 year old son told me she is so unhappy in her marriage she doesn't know what to do, she cannot do anything without her husband's permission, and he hits her frequently (he is employed in a very good position so poverty is not such an issue for this family).  Her words:  'we don't have freedom here in Nepal, and I don't have freedom in my own home or my life either'. 

* Newly implimented SLE (School Leaving Certificate) exams by the government, newspaper articles as follows:

- Two examinees gave birth in the examination hall, one as she recieved her English Question paper.  They were provided with an extra hour to complete the exam... (generous, is it not?!!!! ugh)

- A fake examinee was arrested by police ...

- Student from a secondary school attacked and chased the Head Master - saying his form was not completed (after he 'gave'   the HM 3000 R to complete it) and therefore was unable to write the exam

- 3 fake students arrested: one man writing in place of his wife, and 2 men writing for other people.

- 3 students fainted during exams.  They were provided with 1.5 hours extra to complete the exams.
  Gee guess the two moms should have fainted after giving birth?

- Stones pelted:  Guardians at a Secondary School were pelted when they failed to assist the examinees to cheat in the exam (with 20 minutes remaining of exam time)

- 3 invigilators and 50 examinees expelled from exam centres (no mention why)

- 2 Invigilators from exam centres arrested while copying the answer to distribuate to examinees

* Power 'Load Shedding':  power outages - as dictated by water supplies = power supplies.  Celebration time now as there is about 12 hours hydro a day. Local newspaper interview with people on the street asked what they are doing with the extra power supply, answers include: taking advantage of it by downloading music, studying, and reading at night....

It's too bad, but I was ready to leave Nepal.  The nights were so long - think about it: It's dark by 6 pm, the 'action' in town stops by 7 - 8 pm. There is no heat in the rooms, no TV, the lights are off most of the time (the generator supplied one dim light in the bedroom yes I am grateful for that!), frequently not able to shower at night because of no warm water (depends on solar power and how much laundry was done at the hotel), and it is SO cold at night ..... It was terribly lonely as well.  My days were fun at the school, but anyone I met at the hotel were very transient, leaving within 2 - 3 days.

Like Emma, I love the kids and they are so worth every effort towards their education, shelter, and general well being.

'my morning'  Grade One Class

Their Favorite Song taught by Canadian Sherry

You Are My Sunshine (Happy Version)

You are my sunshinte, my only sunshine
you make me happy when skies are grey
You'll never know dear
How much I love you
Please don't take my sunshine away

The other day dear as I was walking
I knew I had you in the sky
When I looked up dear I saw you shining
and I touched my heart, and I smiled

(replaced THIS verse!!!: 
The other night dear as I was sleeping
I dreamed I had you in my arms
When I awoke dear, I was mistaken
and I hung my head and I cried...)  deemed WAY too sad!  Hopefully they will never sing my version to another North American!


March 22, 2012:   EAST MEETS WEST.. LOOK WHO I FOUND IN BANGKOK ???

NEPAL....CONTINUED and CONCLUDED!

Oh - Oh Where oh Where to Start?  For sure NOT at the beginning eg.  March 4!  If I had promised a chronological accounting of events and travels I would totally pass on accounting for my travels and just find myself a cold lassi (or beer)!  Here goes:

* Tsewang Visit on Saturday March 17: 

14 years old, lovely and ever so serious!  Mom died of cancer 1.5 years ago and she left her village at 8 years old.  Tsewang wants visit but it's one day by bus followed by 5 days trekking/walking... she hasn't been back since leaving 5 years ago. She has an older brother still there with his wife and children.  Tsewang is very bright and tutors other students in her Math class. 

She was very sure she 'didn't need anything' when I asked if there  was something she needed..  I ask YOU what 14 year old girl 'doesn't need anything' ????!!!  So we went 'window shopping' and well surprise surprise...  'oh look at these yoga pants..(I ask her) I Love wearing these... and they look so pretty and comfy with the hot pink band around the hips and waist'.... She agrees, yes they are verrry nice... Next question 'why don't you try them on?'  This she cannot resist, and into the change room she goes!  With some tough bargaining between the two of us we get the sales clerk down to 50% off.  Back onto the street we go.  Tsewang is thrilled with her one pair of pants.  Then I ask her if she likes the t-shirts on display in another store... she is now helpless.  In she goes and like a typical 14 year old girl anywhere she falls in love with a white top covered in HOT PINK hearts!  Following our shopping spree for a total price tag of $9 CND, we have lunch at her choice - a very small local 'restaurant' serving  Momo's.  To my surprise she orders 'buf' (buffalo/yak?) momo's, and gobbles them up like there is no tomorrow.   I am agape.  She confirms the Buddist school is vegetarian, and I am silent  I dearly hope I inadvertently have not overstepped boundaries with the school but at this point there is nothing I can do!  She eats them like there's no tomorrow! gulp.  I am quiet and assume she will be (quiet) as well.  

After the first hour and half, we start discussing all sorts of subjects and it's fun when she finally loosens up just a little (not TOO much), and shares some of her thoughts.  I also observe and appreciate her trust when she comes out of the change room to do a modest twirl to show me tops, looking with big brown eyes, questioning:   'what do you think?'.  What I REALLY think is: okkkay is that top with the hot pink hearts, and a little scoop neck gonna be ok at the Buddist School?  Instead I inquire:  humm that looks very nice on you, will you be able to wear it to school?  She enthusiastically nods her head and I defer to both her and the school to figure it out.  We go to the till... 'how much?' we ask the reply R 750.  She looks terribly shocked, shakes her head and goes 'tsk, tsk' clicking her tongue.  I play along and look appalled.  We get the price down to R 450 and dance out of the store!   Next:  she teaches me about the 108 candles on display on the streets.... if you are interested, you have to ask!!  We talk about games, she tells me about how her and her family would play cards on New Years Day and she really loved it.  Also said does not play cards at the school as it's considered gambling. But she does a lot of other activities that she loves...

*  Meeting 'Kathy' a nurse from Hong Kong:

We meet at Namobuddha and hit it off.  Very nice to have her company and learn about her (I sob) trekking experiences in Nepal.  She hopes to travel into Tibet but the political situation is not supportive right now. When the time comes to leave Namobuddha we head for an early  local bus.  We sit in billowing dust along the road, and then our bus rounds the corner. we both react at the sight of 20+ guys riding on the top and the inside is so packed people have various body parts draped out the windows.  I DON'T *&%$$ THINK SO!!! The guys on top indicate there is room for us and start shuffling themselves around to indicate their helpfulness.  They are bewildered when we decline.   

Back up the hill to hire a taxi.  VERY Expensive as  they come from Kathmandu and it takes 2 - 3 hours to travel the 40 kms, including the death defying (depends who is driving, MY betel spitting taxi driver is not recommended - see below) 8 kms pot holed, narrow, dusty and very steep trail up the mountain to Namobuddha).  We approach a jeep in the parking lot, and its monk driver asking if it's heading down the mountain... well don't ya know he is a Travel Angel (they come in all sizes and and dress you know!) and we have a ride all the way to Kathmandu, right to the door of my hotel!  No charge, but I am so pleased to make a generous donation to the monestary.

* Taxi TO Namobuddha from Bhathatpor (bad, wrong spelling but you don't know it) rapidly became a trip from hell. My previously noble, courteous, and cautious driver arranged by Lame Pema in Bouddha has suddenly turned into a betel/pan chewing and spitting manic who weaves around corners as he constantly takes calls on his cell.  I try a gentle but direct approach to reflect my nicely balanced spiritual mind following 4 days in the mountain retreat.  It doesn't last.  We narrowly miss a bus and motorbike while rounding a corner and the Buddha zone disappears and pumping 'flight or fight' adrenaline puts me securely into survival mode.  If memory serves me correctly it is possible I said something like:  " I need you to pull over and STOP NOW".  Then: " I am not paying you R25,000 to die on a road in Nepal; do you talk on the phone and chew and spit pan when the monks are with you?  (that surprised him!)  I need you to put the phone away, spit out ALL of the pan and drive safely... do we understand each other?"  Apparently we did, nevertheless I 'fired' him as soon as I arrived intact at Namobuddha, 'no please do not come to pick me up in three days, and don't call me I'll call you....'

*  Self Developed Mediation Retreat (modified for public consumption)

For sure am happy to talk and talk about my one week experience!   Just ask me.....in person.  It feels too revealing to discuss in detail in the blog.  And way too many thoughts, feelings, and experiences to share in a written form.

FYI  Vegetarian food is not always delicious or nutritionally balanced.  gulp.  That being said, a couple of the luncheon meals at Bhathatpor were really amazing.  Delivered right to my door as follows:  (little bell rings as the guy delivers the food) 7 am Breakfast (spicy beans and a momo) 12 noon, lunch; 3 pm chai tea (unfailingly delish) and 6 pm dinner. 

Retreat Schedule:   up at 6 (or so, the manager is flexable!) reading spiritual material 1 - 3 hours, journalizing 1 - 2 hours and mediation started at 10 minutes, increase by 5 minutes per session minimum 2/day.  After lunch take to the hills!  Walking for several hours on dusty roads, rocky trails and through steep fields.

In my wanderings, I encounter tribal women who are so beautiful, friendly and welcoming, and I accept their invitations to visit at the side of the road or in their front yard.   I feel such sadness and shame when I consistently decline tea and meals. I see the hurt feelings and really feel like.... (you fill in the blanks). I try to explain my delicate North American constitution, I say I must return to the monestary, make a variety of excuses and miserably fail to make them understand.  I just get SO sick if I step out of line with food and water.... The Bali  Shaman is a case in point!  Still it was a very disappointing experience for them and for me.  
I find my way to the tops of hills and see the Himalaya's! The mountains surrounding me fills my heart with such joy!  I love it, love it love it..   I sit alone for hours on the hillside gazing all around me and pledge to return for a serious trekking experience.  Nature provides the perfect worship venue - in my 'view'!  How can you get closer to God or Buddha or whoever is YOUR spiritual presence than here, in the glory and majesty of nature? 

Namobuddha is an incredible experience -  literally thousands of prayer flags and a very well established center with a Health Clinic, huge new Monestary, a school, several housing units for monks, and two guest houses. Population varies with visitors but a guess is around 400.  I am still processing seeing the inside of the  monestary - to be discussed later!).  The days are warm and beautiful with clear skies and pristine air.  The nights are so cold I simply freeze! ughhg. 

Tomorrow:   I say good bye to the two Grade One classes and a few new found friends I've met here.

I've enjoyed my visit - but I feel a lot of sadness not trekking.  Even though I promise myself to return, I still feel a profound loss of experience. No need to feel sorry for me, I am having a pity party all on my own!

Thailand on THURSDAY! Jim in Thailand on THURSDAY!!!!  YIPPPPEEEE

Oops meant to say:  will download photos asap (on Nepal time :) Good luck with THAT!

 Love and Hugs to you!