Monday, 7 May 2012

SAWADEE AND LOVE FROM LAOS

Once again, in no particular chronological order!

SCLEROTHERAPY Experience:

Bangkok 3 weeks ago $60 and an hour later treatment completed. Where o where IS Sherry the RC? I didn't ask nor had any idea that part of the treatment plan is wearing a very (very) tight elastic 'stocking' from toes to thigh for 24 hours/day and duration of minimun 8 days! And of course the post-treatment day we had the visa run to Cambodia.... more on that later. 'nough to say it was not the most comfy experience which (if you have any empathy whatsoever) you'll understand as you read the Cambodian Border Hellish Experience... soon to come in this blog.

But more importantly, the ugly distracting (to me) vein on my right leg below my knee (just to my left) is now a mere faint shadow of it's former self. I am SO pleased, and for a small fraction of NA costs. Never mind the elastic tourniquet choking off all major arteries on right side of body. Forgot the 100 degree heat and 99% humidity discomfort for 8 days. Oh and the little Asian female whippets glancing (repeatedly) at my two massive NA legs, one darkly tanned and the other with 'flesh - pale pink -toned' thick wrapping as far as the eye can see....


CAMBODIA HELLISH VISA RUN

Up at 6 am to hunt down the Mini Bus. You've heard about how easy Thailand is, you know the 'no problem in Thailand EVERYONE speaks ENGLISH' Well I will say they are travelling in a different country than we are. OUR Thailand native speakers are (occasionally) fluent with 'hi, hewo, than you, velcome', and with smiling and bowing. As soon as we desparately need something, even these people are no where to be seen.

We wander around Victory Monument, where the internet info tells us to go. Here I need to clarify something. Perhaps you visulize a sedate area, maybe a block long, a two lane treed street and gentle traffic flow, with a nice big sign in English stating CAMBODIA MINI BUS HERE!?

The reality: a huge area with countless lanes of traffic - 89% of them white Toyota minivans - around a central park with Victory Monument gratefully secure in the middle. No running or walking across the street here. Nope. Everytime we need to cross one of the dozen intersections of 4 - 6 lanes each, up a couple of flights of stairs for the pedestrian overpass, down the other side. By the third one, I am whining 'I don't think this is what Dr. ____ meant when she said I can stroll in air conditioned malls'..... my leg is aching (whine)'.

Then try to ask SOMEONE about the bus. We are either met with blank confused stares or sent in circles by well meaning non-basic English speaking Thai's. Finally we ask one of Thailands 2,000,000 tranvistie's, sitting at a small sidewalk table and looking more femine and lovely than I ever have (but with a very deep voice, MY voice is better). 1.5 hours later we are on our mini-bus. Sweaty and pathetically grateful and relieved.

4 hours later at high noon we arrive at the border. Now we are in for a treat, but hey we've done Nicaragua! We are much better prepared psychologically than the other Cambodian Border newbies. First is the severe difference between the two countries. It really is another world and you can literally see the level of Cambodian poverty by glancing from Thailand at the border.

First we are told by an 'experienced' American backpacker 'this is the WORSE border crossing, watch out for scams, touts, etc. OK he's never been to Central America! At the first stop Customs tries to shake us down for an extra $5. A firm 'no' and point at the sign above the counter stating the real cost takes care of the issue.

Out the door and Jim skips, I limp, to the extensive line up going back into Thailand. We stand, we continue to stand. After 45 minutes I snarl at a French couple that think they are going to sneak in front of us. Not. Then, it's a huge success when the line moves 10 feet, enough to put us in some shade. The French remain defeated and find a niche behind us. An expat in front of us says with great expertise 'this is about 2 hours'. Being here is Nirvana, the temperature drops to at least 95 F. Then we see dark clouds forming. The wind picks up. Thunder roars. Thailand staff hustles everyone under the overhang (which we notice has multiple holes in it). It starts to POUR like it only can in the tropics. Suddenly they get our group into the building and we think 'gosh this is great, we're going to be out of here soon'.

HA! I move through quickly, but Jim just happens to get Ms. Efficient Thailand who notices his passport is missing a stamp or two checking him out of Cambodia. We are sent BACK TO CAMBODIA! With an umbrella. I am now beyond whining. I am just thinking 'suck it up buttercup' and ignore the leg. The rain is a relief, the puddles are suspicious. 'What WAS that floating there?' Don't look closely. Hum too bad Jim wore sandles.

Another line up. Then a Second Line up. We meet with (some) sympathy with other travellers who say 'oh this happens to everyone on their first time through!' Back to Thailand. We are on the mini bus by 5:30 pm. Now we have an unmotivated bus. This driver is more interested in his IPhone and picking up any waif lounging along the highway than anything else. He also likes to stop for no particular reason... disappearing into various buildings for....???? We are a defeated group. At this point we are so passive there are few comments. Arrival in Bangkok by 9 pm..... Some interesting posters at the Border

1) at Thailand Immigration office

2) Cambodia Immigration sign, another focussed on child prostitution
3) and we're complaining about standing in the hot sun!


Various Signs in recent travels brings a bit of a smile or questioning look:
(India) Government Forms and Document (a huge) Building in Calcutta
(Thailand) Anti-Money Laudering Building in Bangkok (also large!)
(Thailand) Anti-Corruption Building in Bangkok
Laos Signs in National Museum
Frequent references to 'Puppets of the United States Government' and The People's Liberation Party !
LAO NATIONAL MUSEUM
Located in a French era (built in 1925) building in Vientiane, it retains the revolutionary zeal of PLA. Very interesting displays and well worth visiting, even without modern ventilation or air con. Good section on the Plain of Jars - 2 of them are on display. Our itenerary includes a trip to this area in Northwestern Laos where hundreds of these large stone jars are scattered on the plains, they are estimated as 2000 years old. They were possibly used for burials. This area is one of the most heavily bombed in Laos during the Vietnam War, and remains a very dangerous zone for unexploded Ordenances (UXO's)). One display showed an infant's burial jar, with tiny bronze wrist and ankle bracelettes and was heavily weighted with beautiful glass beads. The inference is the child was either from a very wealthy family or was much loved, demonstrated by the riches accompaning her.
BUS TRIP TO LAOS
I need to spend a little bit of time describing a our all day trip from to the border of Pak Chong, Thailand to Laos:
Another hellish bus trip through Thailand... jeez why o why do we not get the big air con busses with the softie, lumbar supported seats? I swear to God or Buddha I lost at least 10 L of water in sweating. No exaggaration either. Now THIS bus had vacant seats when we got on, which is always a positive sign. But they were 2/3 the size required by the average North American butt... and kind of how do I say it... slippery.. as in plastic-like. And it LOOKED like air conditioning. We never did find out for sure as we adjusted the little blow thingie's to no avail. It may have been the issue of stuffing the bus with as many bodies as possible. This means the entire aisle is jammed from back to front. You've seen cans of sardines? Well that is basically it only light a match under the can and let them stew for 9 - 12 hours. Thats us,and 50 other people. 

Then there is the story of TO PEE OR NOT TO PEE, this is the question... On the road for 3.5 hours and the bus stops for a maximum of 2.3 seconds to allow some fortunate soul to leap off the vehicle, snatching their bag on the way out, and landing feet up at the side of the road.  We stop again, this time in the parking lot of a bus depot... but not in a stall or in any way appearing to stay more than 2.3 seconds. The bus remains running.  No one even twitches to make a move off the bus.... the driver however jumps out, lights a smoke... and Jim takes this opportunity to cautiously leave the bus.  He approaches the driver.. gestures to him 'toilet'.  Driver looks abit put out but points him to the appropriate direction... YIPEE I am off the bus in a flash. Like who needs this as much of not more I ask you?  This is a different story. He firmly shakes his head 'no' I cannot go!!!  OK you maybe you can tell an obedient Thai lady no, but it is not working for a NA woman.  I insist.  He almost jumps up and down in his fury.... I cross my arms.  TOILET I say.... he finally breaks and off I go.  AH it was worth the battle. I hold my ground and head high for all woman kind. 
As you can see Jim is somewhat content....!
I was so bitchy by the time we got to the hotel (on the 100 F degree heated bus from 7 am to 6:30 pm got up at 6 am of course. ) that I nearly pyhsically attacked the two waiters last night that tried to tell me they did not have even ONE COCKTAIL on the freakin menu! nor did they know one freakin word of English. I read the menu and it showed one whole big page of colorful, yummy and frosty margaritas, G and T, Mojitoes.... and to be told I couldn't have even ONE threw me into some kind of a tantrum/melt down!
Ooops guess you could tell I (we ) were a little frazzled!!! We spent the rest of the night trying to suck up to them after feeling stupid for being so... stupid! So we ordered our dinner which was one of the best in Thailand.
THEN we decided on ice cream, and of course now we are more aware of the operational hazards in the Restaurant... the menu showed 2 full pages of ice cream including strawberry, blueberry, 3 chocolates, green tea... on and on. So, we smile and order and ask 'is this ok? do you have this' and the head bobbing and body bowing, and smiles were approving and neverending. NOTE: Thai's really really do not like to displease anyone, and are totally agreeable rather than say, 'no', hence it leads to all sorts of interpersonal relationship issues with foreigners.... so we sit down and sure enough, here they come. Now they are approaching us in groups of at least two people. No ice cream that we ordered. So out comes the menu again. Out of 16 varieties of ice cream they actually have 3. All is well, we order one of the three and everyone is smiling and agreeable!
Note: We ARE in Laos, and this will be Continued.....soon
Love to all :)
By the way we just got back from dinner with dessert of MANGO PIE and Vanilla Ice Cream - in the low 80's and very pleasant....
Last night we went for dinner and then took our 'Happy Hour' drinks To Go in large paper cups to wander through the Vientiene Night Market. Ah life is sweet!
Leaving for Northern points, to Luang Prabang of course early morning bus - 11 hours (humm we'll see!). This is the ancient capital of Laos, a world heritage site..... stay tuned!

No comments:

Post a Comment