Friday, 3 February 2012

Yet another temple!


1) in the coracle, 2) Pilgrims on the river 3) my joyful am hike 4) 2nd group pilgrims by the way I just found out this river has 'gators!





On the Road... taken from front seat of our car! sorry no sound clip of LOUD Indie music


The 3 Wanderin' Indian Women in Hampi - 600 steps up to Hindu Monkey Temple


a Few Snippets... from the India Road

I'm gonna try something - work with me OK?  By the way thanks for reading Wanderin' Womyn's Wawa Wewe!

The whole idea ... and goal is to offer you some of my memories, impressions, and real happenings from the last 7 - 10 days... probably NOT in chronological order or in any meaningful sequence. I...am so not wanting to forget.   Here goes....

* important note: Our Bed and Breakfast in Goa:  we just got back here 3 hours ago and Alfred just served up his special 'feni' a Goa speciality moonshine liquor made from coconuts! Be... Warned drinking and writing :)

* major issue (not so fun) with my right hip... my Massage Therapist buddy Belle worked on me for 2 hours in Hampi and managed to stabilize it.  Could not walk for more than 30 minutes or so depending on the surface.  She thinks it's a  pinched nerve (spine)... so far so good I'm doing great now!  Love that woman!

*Wild and crazy, fun and frightening trip across 2 states with final destination of Hampi - a National Heritage Site.. and rightfully so  PLEASE do a quick google... you just gotta look at the photos if nothing else. then you will understand my temporary insanity about this place.  Hint:  I am in love with rocks, clear blue skies, mixed with miles of monuments, hiking and gawking, photo taking, bird hunting...

* Our Hampi room - hysterical and very expensive but right beside the temples and boulders... beds like plywood, bright blue walls,  curtains that don't quite close.... hey it was great with the 3 of us in there.  good thing we are all pretty easy going (don't choke laughing please) then the monkey's all over the place they will steal everything.  They would be right out on our walkway but we kept the clothes!

* pilgrims - colorfully dressed, bare footed, wandering on a spiritual pilgrimage for 1 - 3 months. We met about 50 of them bathing in the beautiful river running through Hampi, among the huge grey boulders, colorful sarongs spread out to dry and everyone freely bathing in the river.  They have something to teach us about being in the present.  I'm LISTENING!!! Hey, over here! I can learn too!

* took a basket boat ride down the river in Hampi!  Jeez talk about fun...

* up for an early morning hike through the boulders and thrilling to the sun rising in the sky, my heart sings.

* watched Lukihi (something like this spelling...) the 20 year old Temple Elephant have her morning bath in (the same as mentioned above) river.  First she lays on one side, then, as directed by her handler she rolls to the other.  Her handler and his assistant seriously scrubs her with a stiff bristled brush and she lays there gently spraying water over her face or just up in the air (for the hell of it!)   Her morning toilet ritual takes about 45 - 60 minutes, then she is paraded back to the temple where she is decorated (painted) for the day!

*  Gypsy's outside of Hampi, wagons and all!  Had built straw houses (no kidding) looks like a big round pile of straw, only can see lights on inside!

* Pan stores:  sell betel nut and betel nut ground and mixed with tobacco

* 'Highways' are really really interesting... zooming down various width roadways mixed with tons wildly decorated semis, all of us going no more than 80 kms/hour (thank God), then frequent populations of cows (from 4 - 10) goats (10 - 150) covering the entire road surface... oops then there are the tractors... decorated even more wildly than the trucks... with the addition of Indi Music booming from said vehicle and the Indian driver, and crew (in a wagon bumping along behind him) happily bumping along at 20 kms maximum.  Then of course there are the bikes, motorbikes, walking women with wood piled on their head...  men...just walking!

* Monkey's - grabbing at Ellen's purse with hands grasping the zipper. She grabs and moves away.  Monster Monkey stretches out to grab MY backpack... ughhh. 

* Internet was down for nearly 24 hours because monkeys chewed up the power/phone lines

*have successfully achieved some status over breakfast of outma, sira and masala doce, and heavily sweetened chi tea.   apparently I am adjusting.. little do my travel companions know what I would give for a bowl of fresh fruit, yogurt and decaf americano!

* fields of Sunflowers (you know, the guys that are neverending cheerful and without fail turn their heads to follow the sun - isn't that some kind of a miracle?), cotton (yep they grow COTTON), millet, mangos, bananas, chilies ( I see.. chilies spread out on tarps over a 1/2 acre, with men and women tending to them dressed in all colors of sarongs...)

* saw a MONGOOSE run across the road today :)

* sightings of:  Wild Peacocks!!!

* Yesterday morning, bouncing down the 'highway' - a bus load of soldiers on the edge of the road spaced between 8 - 12 feet ... looking out across the field ignoring the rest of the 59 men... peeing in unison!  you can just imagine the laughing and our comments, 'oh they must be trained to pee at exactly 9 am!!!'

* Woke up this morning in Hubli - a tourist-boring city with the best hotel in town being 'Executive /Business Accommodation'  our room was $10 CND/each - I must add, nice new sheets, clean air-con, room service (beer and peanuts please) - to sirens alerting the devote to muslim prayers.

That's it for now!  We are off tomorrow to fly to Calcutta!  Stay tuned...

Thursday, 26 January 2012

LA..DEE....DAAAA!!!! INDIA!!!

Day 4 and all is well!

Jet Lag - Stable Recovery

Sleep Patterns - all 3 of us - 100%  participation in the 4 am 'wide awake, ready to go' stage!
Accommodation -  Well - adjusted to our 200 year old beautifully maintained
Portguese mansion!  Our hosts: Christine and Alfred are amazing and welcoming.  Plus Alfred makes very (very) good 2nd run cashew liquor!  (kind of a Goan moonshine at 52% alcohol content, does not take much to 'taste it' and it will likely be the innoculation to Travellers Diarrha (sorry re: spelling). He offers it up to us as an evening ritual on the outdoor deck.

(My) First Impressions of India:

*  Wow! I am sooo happy!

*  Thrilled with the whole idea of being here, surrounded by everything Indian.

*  Real appreciation for the way our Indian immigrants kept their language, culture, dress, and food.  Way to Go Canada for not having a cultural 'melting pot' where everyone has to be the same.  Way Not to Go Canada for some of us having prejudges towards a kind and gracious people.

* Dismayed at my fussy food issues.... spicy garbanzos and potatoes, chipati's, and dahl for breakfast nearly brings me to pitiful tears.... curry and spices at each and every snack and meal... well I'm due for a little attitude-adjusting.

* The Light! Is magic. Photos are golden hued, bringing joy to photography.  The soil and rock is red and/or yellow-gold, showing off everything and everyone in the very best, most exotic glow possible.

*  Early morning coal smoke pollution is literally sickening, can last for hours but is often gone by 9 am.  General air pollution is abit frightening (cough) but makes for beautiful sunsets!


* Goa is not touristy.  And not terribly overcrowded.  So far, ok after only 4 days, India feels pretty darn safe, interesting and fun.  So what my bad, negative brain says: oh, oh I'm being set up and somewhere down the line I'm gonna get a shock... yikes how bad will it be.  Oh Dear! Until then my shiny, happy side is just plain smug and enjoying each Indian day. 

* How DO the Indian men bob their heads (similar to those silly dashboard head-bobbing dolls) in response to requests or in general conversation?  It takes alot to figure out if it means:  'I agree' or 'I don't agree but will do it anyways', or 'boy are YOU weird', or 'I have no idea what this stranger wants but can always just bob my head until they go away'!

* Happy to have two wonderful travel  buddies, Ellen with awesome Indian knowledge, organizational and collaboration skills, and Belle with her fun attitude towards everything, including food!

A COUPLE OF SIGHTSEEING SNIPPETS


WILDLIFE SANCTUARY (aka 'zoo')

Thumbs Up:
Mild mannered, very pretty cream/light brown 3' tall monkeys, ID unknown roaming around outside the 'sanctuary'
Sloth Bears - hyper, pigeon-toed, Brown, Round and Cuddly
Deer - variety of Indian deer, awesome selection - one small agile breed jumps about 4 feet straight up when startled, and standing still! 
Snakes - yep lets keep as many boa's possible in cages!

Thumbs WAY Down

Tiger and Panther - not a spirit lifting experience to watch these powerful, beautiful and proud cats behind wire fencing.  Would give up seeing sloth bears and monkeys to NOT see these animals relentlessly pacing the fence perimeter.



PORTUGUESE COLONIAL-ERA MANSIONS

400+ Year-old full of overwhelming (some in amazing condition, others pretty tattered) treasures.  Braganza House, owned by 2 brothers with the decendents still residing in separate wings.  Check it out online if you are really interested. I could but won't go on and on about it! One short story:  the West Wing family Chapel has a very carefully hidden fingernail of Francis Xavier!! Yep I have a photo!

ANJUNA

Exhausting trip to The Flea Market.  I have NEVER seen a market even 20% as large as this! Yes, Brenda and Donna - not even the New Mexico Dream Market.  I was so overwhelmed I did not buy a single thing. I know I can't believe it either!  Ellen however did quite well and took the challenge in hand.  We recovered with fresh grilled fish and cold beer, watching the sunset.

Photo of the Day
Ellen and Belle, walking on a pristine white sand beach with blue/green ocean backdrop, and between me and my camera -and subjects - a very content, fat and sleek Indian cow lounging in a meditation like pose....  no nagging for the photo. Will try to get it loaded.... soon 

WANDERIN' UPDATE

On the travel road tomorrow heading to Hampi and many historical monuments and temples. Dandeli for 'exotic wildlife including elephants, Sloth Bears!  And who knows what else.  Returning here again in one week and flying to Calcutta on February 4.













 



Monday, 16 January 2012

WAWA WEWE FROM VANCOUVER!

OOPS I KNEW I forgot something!!  The Blog!!!  Well here is a quickie. 

HOMECOMING

What a welcome. My heart still smiles and I get a little misty eyed.  First of all, I had the sweetest Tiwanese seat mates on both flights coming back. Of course I am invited to come visit them the very next time through Taipie! Then I arrive at YVR 6 pm with a personalized Jim Airport Pickup service. 

Arrive at #5 Greenland home.  There in my living room window is a huge sign WELCOME HOME MOM MOM, surrounded by Christmas lights.  Inside the apartment the whole kitchen and living room is decorated with draping garlands, strings of lights, hanging decorations, and a table full of fresh fruit. It was ingenious and creative.  Allan, Braden and Isaiah had paid a visit a few days before I came home!  I will never ever forget this homecoming!  I was actually speechless which is really saying something.  Wow.  The only word that comes close to describing it.

Out to dinner in Vancouver, lots of chating and catch up time.  Then came the real fun.  Jet Lag. No sleep.  12 hours in bed for 6 hours broken snooze time.  Followed by the flu for NYE - which of course goes really well with a hot date at Hotel Georgia. sob.  then a cold for the Whistler trip.  Now I am healthy and rested, and leaving in 4 days!  But it's been great to see everyone that I did get to .... see.  And Home For Christmas.  the ever important thing. 

LAST FEW WEEKS IN BALI, SOME WAWA WEWE

On the Amed Coast:  desolate, well ok with the exception of Yoshi, my very fun new friend from New York City!  We managed to bond very nicely over beer, satay, around the pool, on the motor scooter, and snorkelling. 

Bobo:  a very desponent, gentle and intelligent soul employed at my 'hotel', who risked life and limb, well ok maybe just increased stress levels and some minor bruising by 'teaching' me to drive a motor scooter. On the wrong side of the road.  But hey, I had lots of fun AND came out (relatively) unscathed.  We had a heart to heart chat by Day 3 about 'attitutude, connecting with people, and the glass half full vs half empty'.  I left feeling like a real jerk for challenging his attitudes.  But the pay off came on the next day with a Bobo with a changed attitude, doing a professional job serving and caretaking.  The second day he thanked me and I felt a huge sense of relief.

Bettina:  yep we had a very good time thank you!   In spite of mixing a rabid non-smoker with an frequent ferocious smoker, we managed to really enjoy each others company with a journy to Lombongan Island.   Snorkeling, walking, scooter renting, getting very very lost and repeatedly going in circles for 2 hours. It was not funny until after dinner and retiring for the night.  Then we became quite hysterical when we realized between the two of us we have over 100 years combined life experience, and 50+ countries, yet we get hopelessly lost on a 10 km X 30 km Island!!!    I will not go into great detail about 'the body that washed up on the beach in front of our beautiful hotel.  Three days after the Lombok - Timor ferry sank with 250 people on board and 30 survivors.   

TRAVEL UPDATE ALERT

Off I go and what an adventure, even for an experienced wanderin soul this is a little extreme.  How do I describe in one word:  heart pounding excitment, eagerness, wonderment, wanderment, flabbergasted, spiritually tickled, personally awed, and overall totally blessed???? 

Ok here's what's happen'

Departure YVR with Belle and Ellen 3 pm January 20 for MUMBI INDIA!!!!  We connect onward to Goa for a few days, then hire  car for another few days of personalized sightseeing.  Travel to Calcutta by Feb 5. Then a train on my own to Varanase for a few days to check out the funeral pyres on the Ganges.  After some days of exploring, I will meet Suzan 'somewhere' then continue by train to Dehli in time to board my flight to NEPAL! 

I leave Nepal for Bangkok on March 22 where I'll meet Jim to explore SE Asia.  Due home end of May then HELLO VANCOUVER and my favourite Pacific Northwest for summer time hiking, biking, camping, barbques (Deb!) and music festivals.  Let me know if you have something else 'to do'.  And when you are available for what :)

BLOGGING  probably irratic. especially in India.  But I intend on continuing and hope you do too! 

ONWARD SEMI-FEARLESS WANDERERS!