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Well here it is, finally THIS Big Blog entry 4 weeks post trip return home. CONFESSION: Really the only reason this has been drafted, edited, and bullied into some coherent order is only because of your very kind words of appreciation and (even) praise. Blog. Thank You, I guess I really needed the encouragement to give me the push towards motivation. And then there is Sylvia, who utters sweetest, frequent, and consistent praise to my hungry, egotisical ears!

VIETNAM TO CAMBODIA

'Tropic Tour' (FYI web: tropicaltourvietnam.com)

One of those (rare) tour experiences that gave far more and much better value than offered. $50.00/each for two days, including (gasp and shock: GOOD) guides, transportation, lunch and overnight accommodation. They delivered their promises and 150% more, it was a wonderful two-day experience.

Toured all through the Mekong Delta from Vietnam to Phnom Pehn. Fantastic drive from HCMC (aka Ho Chi Minh City...Saigon) to the Mekong River - through rice paddies, Southern villages to Cai Be. Made like an exotic traveller boating through the Floating Market - didn't blink once for fear of missing some 'once in a lifetime' view or photo. Head swivelling from side to side and occasionally straining to see backwards. Oh, the sights! Surrounded by all sizes of wooden boats, every one of them carrying some form of produce. These wholesale dealers sit and wait patiently for buyers, and their vessels overflow with tons of coconuts, pineapple.. and watermelon.... Sailed through canels eventually arriving at an orchard of (guess what?!) tropical fruits and small business entrepeunteres making and selling rice paper, candy, and popped corn coated in ummm sugar!!! An oddity: Boa oil (skin?insect bites? youthfulness?).

Long Xuyen Crocodile Farm - thousands of the creepy creatures. In groupings of hundreds penned according to size/age. Looking at them I can see handbags, shoes, boots, wallets, in all colors. But where are the orange and blue crocs??

HOW DOES A TURTLE 'DO IT'?
Most facinating of all - mating turtles. Well, one was trying to mate, the other played hard to get. She was attempting a turtle-run seeking refuge from a very horny mate. Lucky me, I managed to get a short video clip with the male catching up to her, at the very last moment pulling in his head and loudly and repeatedly banging into her back-end shell with the front bumper of his shell. CRASH!!! BANG!!! Rough foreplay? Quite loud considering the apparent laid back nature of turtles.

Then our last night in Vietnam: on the Mekong River

Early morning views

(-) minus 4 Star 'Hotel'

FLOATING HOTEL - outside our 'unit'

Night time: 'Basic Floating Hotel' experience. For Sherry: dreamlike misty views on the Mekong, various boat traffic, birds, floating plants... ..Jim: Appauled at the paper thin walls, warped doors, tiny shower consisting of a pail and bucket, hard mattresses and kleenex-thick towels. Early morning life on the Mekong River shrouded with fluffy white foggy mist, and early morning fisherpeople gracefully throwing nets into the water.. lovely. While I went to breakfast Jim started the rescue process for the 2 young women next door to us. They realized at 3 am they could not open their exterior room door, although they could reach through the window with one hand and turn the knob. Finally at 6 am they yelped for help. Jim attempted an unsuccessful rescue then sent out an SOS. Two men and 1 hour later they were finally released. Secure accommodation?!

Breakfast and a quick visit to the Raft Village and small 'fisheries. Onward to a Cham Village, in this case an ancient Mosques of Cham
A Gian community - gentle, elegant and hospitable.

CAMBODIA OR BUST!

Onward, fast boat to the border crossing - a totally laid back experience. The first - stopped at a floating Vietnamese Customs office where we lounged on the deck in the shade while our guide processed all of the exit paperwork!

Next stop Cambodian Immigration office, we docked at a small boat dock, strolled up the river bank to a lovely, sweet, grassy, treed and very pleasant (just in case you're not getting the point) garden. Once again, we sit in the shade checking out the scenery while our guide does all the work! Our only task is to go to a counter for a passport stamp. What an awesome way to transfer from one country to another. Payback for our horrific Cambodia to Vietnam expeiences.

Arrived in Phnom Penh 6 pm, in style! No nasty sweaty busses for us, nope. We zip along the river seeing it gradually widen, gawk at life along and on the river, visit with follow passengers and ask the personable guide questions. However, if you are under 35 yrs old this time is best spent sleeping in a coma like state, sprawled across the hard wooden seats with legs and feet criss-crossing the small walkway.

HOT AND SWEATY IN CAMBODIA

Ah, Cambodia! Fell just a little bit in love with Cambodia How to expain this statement I wonder? or maybe see if you (or someone) asks WHY?

Phnom Penh - large, busy, contrasting affluence and extreme poverty. When possible, I bounce (ha!) out of bed 5:30 - 6 am and hit the streets. Oh the pleasures that greet my senses!

Cooler early morning temperatures have Cambodian's out on the esplande in diverse groups of Thi Chi, fan dancing, stretching and aerobic exercise classes. Women and men in all age groups intermingle to totally enjoy the early morning kick-start to the day.

Devotees lighting incense and tenderly holding lotus flower offerings to Buddist Shrines

Orange and Saffron robed monks make their way along the streets, already protecting shaved heads from the morning sun with umbrellas. By 7:30 I am back at the hotel, soaked with a dewy (?) sheen covering face and bod, soaked from rising humidity and red from heat.

one of many scenes, of grandma and child sitting for endless hours in parks, by rivers and streams, by sidewalks, always in the protection of shade, aways looking hopeless and patient

A for real sign:
The World Toilet Association, Republic of Cambodia!

Our day trip to The Killing Fields by tuk tuk started with the hotel receptionist advising me that on our way - the 14 kms drive - to the fields - we can stop to visit the Garbage Dump City. My horrified look pretty much expressed my feelings about THIS idea. Imagine, me and my brand new $450 Panasonic Lumix, $100 REI day pack, $100 sports sandles, full tummy (compliments of the hotel Breakfast Buffet) and a restful 4-Star hotel sleep, with fluffy white pillows soft/supportive mattress and two queen sized beds. Taking tourist photos of human beings 'surviving' in the worse possible conditions imaginable. Oh yes this would be just great. And so a very intense, emotional day started.

LESSON #4,544 NOT ALL TUK TUKS ARE EQUAL
Finding eager tuk tuk drivers is no problem, they gather outside the hotel in the double digets. One lucky driver gets the job. Climbing in was easiest part and as we moved along the street it appeared we had a one-geared tuk tuk. First gear. That's ok, we're on trip after all, no hurry it gives us a chance to enjoy the sights. Then the first traffic light. We roll to a stop, literally as EVERYTHING stops including the engine. Driver jumps out and performs mysterious mechanical motions on the poor beast, and leaps back in just as the light turns green. Gosh now it seems slower than ever, and all three of us lean slightly forward to 1) lend a little push to gain momentum and 2) peer ahead, hoping against hope we do not have to stop at another red light. Now we are not gazing calmly at the sights. Everything with and without wheels is passing us, and we notice that the locals especially Camodian tuk tuks and slower moving people-powered bikes (driven by little old people and young children) are easily overtaking us and each look at our tuk tuk with pity and concern. An hour later and it's not much fun anymore, it's now very hot and all those vehicles passing us kick up a ton of dust. Our driver continues on like there's nothing at all wrong. When we hopefully ask if it is possible to move into second gear, he eagerly says 'yes' and does so. Now we have a roaring, very slow moving tuk tuk. We finally arrive at our destination and we pay him and let him go. OK Lesson #876 but like 99% of the lessons on the road, what is it??? Look carefully at tuk tuk? See if tuk tuk can go over 10 kms/hour??

HEARTACHE AND TEARS

Choeung Ek Genocial Centre: The Killing Fields
NOTE: an estimated 300 Killing Fields are scattered throughout Camodia

The memorial site respectfully and lovingly honors the approximate 18,000 men, women and children brutally executed here under the 3 year Khmer Rouge rule. Intense, sobering, and all too real. The Stupa (Buddist spritual structure) displays 8,000 > skulls of victims organized by gender and age groups. The Killing Tree and mass grave of women and children freezes most people right in their tracks, held in a state of shock and disbelief. It is a difficult site to process emotionally, time becomes meaningless, and intuitively people sense this is not just another tourist site. Heart and soul slows footsteps and stops speech, right brain overpowers left brain, and for once spirit overcomes cognitive reasoning.

More important is to honor those innocent victims who perished here, with the time, energy and focus they deserve. Khmer Rouge leader, Po Pot, instructed his 'soldiers' that one must eliminate not only the plant but also it's roots - children. Clothing and bone fragments continue to come up to the surface - souls are restless. The staff routinely gather these fragments every 3 months, and store in appropriate places on the site. Tears were steadily streaming down my face 90% of our time there, as were the vast majority of people, and all were profoundly affected by the experience.

Young men and women travellers, whose primary focus is drinking and partying, and they sightsee only if awake and as an afterthought, sit or stand rooted in one sobbing. We tie our yarn and string woven, colorful prayer bracelettes on the small bamboo fence or drape over the hard bark of the Killing Tree. Our way of saying we still care, we are touched forever by this tragedy, we will remember. Poor Tree, Poor Innocent Babies. Poor Sad Us.
Symbolic of Cambodia's and so many other World Atrocities.

Imagine: Just 25 years ago, literally overnight, an entire country was cut off from the outside world to be brutally and radically restructured. Where everyday life turned into a living nightmare with every person suspected of treason, and those with any education (including doctors, only 60 of 600 survived) were immediately executed. Signs of intelligence, for example wearing glasses or reading was a valid reason for death. Calendars, clocks, postal service and money were all eliminated. In less than 4 years, an estimated 2 million people, or 1/3 of the population, died by execution or from the effects of starvation.

Statistics still stunningly reflect the ongoing pain of the people: an estimated 75% of the population suffer from PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder), being passed from generation to generation. Children are traumatized by their parent's experiences and stories. 80% of the population 'live' and work in the countryside. Emotionally and psychologically passive, dulled, and apathetic, hopeless and helpless they barely live on rice, lucky to have meat protein 3/month. Infant mortality rates are terrible. The majority of this population are housed on small wooden sleeping platforms, off the ground with a bamboo roof and no walls. Food is prepared over wood fires, by squatting on the ground. Most adults are illiterate and children attend school only up to Grade 2 or 3, then are needed to tend the rice fields. Water is untreated and contaminated with human and animal waste. Mosquito born diseases are deadly. International aide is generous and constant, but a very minimal amount of assistance gets to where the resources are intended. Corruption is epidemic.

Enough said on that subject, there is so much more. If you have any questions or comments just ask! Assuming YOU are not traumatized by my thoughts that is.

Siam Reap Ankor (Wat) -
Literally the 'heart and soul of Cambodia'

Croc and Ostrich, in Siam Reap and we had to cook it ourselve aided by a hot bubbling hot plate. The Ostrich is a winner. Yummy.

From our hotel balcony: traditional dance performance

4 Star Hotel Balcony view of 4 Star POOL!

Fun Dinners with fun and interesting David, Karyn andLeo and Carla - great conversation, laughs and Mojito converts!

Ommmm, one of many peaceful scenes throughout the Ankgor site, all that is required is to pause, breathe, and smile.

NOT JUST ANOTHER WONDER OF THE WORLD:
Yep ok, checked it, and confirmed it really IS one of the 8 Wonders of World! Angkor is the Mother of All Wats.. the largest religious building in the world. The 2001 film with Angelina J. ' Tomb Raider' one scene was shot at Ankgor Thorne site, which is a whopping 10 sq kms. Right in the middle of Angkor Thom is The Banyon build in 1186 with 54 gothic towers, and 216 enormous faces of (ask me to pronounce it) Avalokiteshva... they regally stare down at us mortals with apparent distain, and power and control issues! We spent 3 alternating, whole days exploring portions of Angkor. The off days we collapsed beside the pool as a reward for hard core hot weather sightseeing.

Hundreds of sacred temples could drive one to distraction... which are the best to see? let's hurry... but repeatedly get caught up with exploring one, and 1 hour turns into 3 because THIS one is really special!! And I fought with the Panasonic Lumix trying to force it to do something I had in mind , but without the technical artistic abilty to accomplish the task.... muttering 'oh the light is too harsh.., this is frustrating... and I need to come back..' heavy sighs.
...........Drama Camera Queen.

Unique tat's shared by Sheldon, from Mid-West USA

Our tuk tuk driver whispers politicial secrets to Jim, how controlled the country is, there is no freedom. Explaining Vietman's heavy involvement in Cambodia. Telling how the Khmar Rouge still rules the country, stating it's 'Same Car, Different Driver'. How bogus the elections are, voters are disqualified with any excuse: the name is misspelled, the address has an error, and other reasons for votes not being counted. Believing there WILL be another civil war. He feels hopeless and helpless.

Krama's - 100% cotton scarves worn as a sarong-type dress, a head wrap, a shawl by both men and women as they work the fields, and I fell in love with them! One of those things you just wonder if you like them only because of the association of being in the country. I buy a few for me and just a few for gifts. Hoping I'm not stuck with all of them. (Turns out I get home and everyone loves them ooops, even Braden and Isaiah. This I did not count on. You just never know.

Camodia Krama

Crickets, 'yummy': teeth and tongue just have to sort through the little wings and heads... we both manage 5 each. Been There, Done That

Cambodia back to Thailand

CAN IT BE?

'Look Honey it's a REAL Tourist Class Bus!' Yes and we are the first ones on the bus. Simply overwhelmed with our good fortune. We CAN CHOOSE... front seats are premium EVERYONE wants a front seat. We dash from seat to seat trying out potential instruments of heaven or hell. But wait! Is there more leg room in the second row? and what about that seat, the lever is broken and it's in a permanent recliner position. ugh. Do you have a clear view out the window? Well it's ok unless we pick up 20 extra passangers... No, they won't do that this is a TOURIST bus. But don't you remember that bus in Vietnam and in Thailand? They picked up anyone by the road. Have to take our chances. Back to it.... to the other side we go. Who get's the window seat? Can you see on the aisle? The daypack doesn't fit under the seat. Put it on top. The shelf is 4" height. ok it'll go in front of me. Where's the water bottle? Finally, we are committed. This is our property for the next 5 hours. We will defend it with smug smiles for as long as we own it.

Cambodia Town Street Market

A feast for eyes: Must stay alert as you just never know what you might see. Motorbikes carry everything you can.. and can't imagine. Two - 100 lb pigs on the back bleakly heading off to market. Tall trees heading.. ??? balanced and waving on the back. 50 - 60 ducks or chickens hanging upside down from their feet, in great humiliation.. to market they go.
Entire families - up to 5 on a bike- travelling somewhere. Then there are the tractor type machines pulling people and large items. Tractor...truck?

tiny but mighty - the motor bike

Check this 3rd world truck with 2 cycle engine?!!! I think I can I think I can...chug chug chug at a deafening 12kph Find the driver....just one of the vast varieties of transportation adapted to last forever, revamped, remodified, repaired,re re re again and again and hauling anything and everything

CALL IT CHAOS!

A few depressed chickens

NAKED PEDESTRIANThen about 20 kms from the border Jim quietly says....in awe and wonder 'a naked man is walking on the road'. And there he is (no doubt of gender) not one stich of clothing, no hat, no shoes. Perfectly composed and comfortable, strolling along the shoulder. No one on the bus utters a word. Traffic continues without pause. And we have no idea what the story is. I will always wonder 'Why?' (it's hot out here even without a hat) Who? (would do this and look 'cool) Where (are you going.., are you from)? In this very conservative country, it just does not fit! My imagination goes crazy... He is in a meditative trance that went too far.... or... ingested a wierd substance causing extreme sensitivity to clothing (but not the sun) or... met someone with nothing, and being a generous Buddhist human, donated ALL his belongings..or? UHGFF We will never know!

Pigs and more Pigs crossing from Thailand into Cambodia, Truckloads of suffering Pork on the Hoof. We see the drivers stopping to hose the poor beasts down with cool water, otherwise they would perish in the heat.

Then the motorcyle 'busses' with hitches pulling a wagon for up to 30 people, balanced on hard seats...

Room for 2 more???

BACK TO THAILAND - ALWAYS FANCINATES! Street Scenes and Market

These nails aren't even intimidating they are downright impossible (ok silly in my slightly biased opinion).

Much less expensive Bangkok Dental Care as compared to home. If you are REALLY on a budget: very reasonable, slightly worn, pre-owned bridges or dentures - you will need to try on first for the right fit!

Check out this very unique, even for Bangkok, billboard. Her mouth opens and closes as manipulated by the robots above.

BOOKS FOR INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

FYI - Books read or reading! AND recommended!

Emergency Sex (and Other Desperate Measures) True Stories from a War Zone
By 3 UN and Red Cross workers in the early 1990's in Cambodia, Rwanda and Bosnia, Somallia and Haiti

First they Killed My Father and the sequel Lucky Child, A Daughter of Camodia Reunites with the Sister She Left Behind
by Loung Ung

Cambodia's Curse - a Modern History of a Troubled Land
by Joel Brinkley

I really really dislike the 'For Idiots' series however for the first time ever I bought the (Idiots Guide to) Buddism by Venerable Thich Nhat Hanh, author of The Miracle of Mindfulness, Being Peace and Living Buddha, Living Christ. I've been working my way through it for two months and really love and appreciate the book. Since it found me in Laos, it has been my best friend

Travel to Airport: Stage One wheel the Wheely Beasts down the street a few blocks to MRT and past the chicken satay, roses, condom and viagra venders!!!

Second stage of Airport Route: MRT skytrain, Jim and the Wheely's

Stage 3 platform of Airport Train (30 min.) to the airport and are we prepared for 30+ travel hours?

TOTAL TIME AND COST
From Central Bangkok to Airport 1 hour and $4 each!

June 12, 2012 BACK IN THE PACIFIC NW!

OH JOY!

Oh, the clean (crisp) air! And drinkable tap water. Fruit and veggies all ok to eat raw AND unpeeled! Orderly traffic, and all the rich North American comforts of home! A bathtub! Pedicure equipment complete with foot cream. A luxurious wardrobe brimming over with 'new' clothes. Tea kettle that works, plug-ins on every wall, lamps that turn on and pillows to envy. Hiking trails looming on the North Shore Mountains and Mt Baker calling me. Cycling right out my door. My very own (25 yr old) bicycle, with gears and brakes that work! The Matrix, dusty and lonely, but right there where I left it! Friends and Family, just pick up (ah, yes!) MY CELL PHONE to talk to someone I love who loves me too!

As this adventure closes I find myself once again wading through memories, impressions, experiences and (as always) lessons learned. My brain shifts through the layers of thoughts and emotions as I anaylize the last 6 months, 7 countries, and people I've been so lucky to have as travel companions, and the new friends I hadn't met before leaving.

* Bettina in Bali (now home in Germany and returning soon to ...BALI!)

* Kathy from Hong Kong, met in Nepal now home in Hong Kong back to working 12 hour nursing shifts (much to her dismay)

* The children in Grade One, and all the others including Tsewang in Nepal,

* Nepal Buddhist School for Himalayan Children. The kids come from remote Himalayan villages, with no schools 4 - 20 yrs old and here they have education, housing, medical and dental care. These village people come from the north of Nepal, but culterally and linguistically are Tibetan.

* Boudha Stupa: hypnotic, mediative music and beautiful, very special spiritual shrine

* The site, prayer flags, scenery, temple, and monks at Namobuddha

From the hills over looking Namobuddha

Young devotee - what better place to feel a connection. I do too.

Sunset and prayer flags....

From the taxi window, to Namabuddha family tettering by the roadside.

* The Young Lawyer in Varansi, first hand Indian stories and experiences freely shared

* Travelling with Ellen and Belle, in India... wow! To hell with the problematic 'triangle' theory. Oh the fun we had! And Gary, the perfect Calcutta Guide.

* Meeting with Suzan and Csilla, Varanasi - double fun and awesome company!

* Ah, the Travel Angels!!! I've neglected to mention them much, but I've noticed them alot. They are everywhere! So often, wonderful un-named friendly faces who CARE, enough to stop, and take time to help with directions, carry my wheely beast, give words of support and guidance, food and company on mini-busses, big busses, trains, in train stations, and as I wander - (occasionally) lost in city and towns help me find my way (in many ways)
.
* As always, those other travellers wandering and criss-crossing my path, always inspiring company over a beer or tea, breakfast or dinner, sharing bus or taxi or train, giving bits of ourselves and our lives to each other. Briefly but always meaningful, as only travellers can accomplish in the blink of an un-mascara-ed eyelash.

* Bhaktapur - Buddhist Retreat overlooking the valley, just below small villages.... brick making area.

Define: Improve, Innovate, Create, Necessary

* Nepal Goal (Someday) trek the amang Heritage Trail - Syabruberi to Gotjung to Golang

* And travels with Jim and Sherry: Think Angelina and Brad (omit Jennifer Lopez). Cat and Dog. Dawn and Dusk. OK you've got the gist. It's all about the great and challenging times travelling couples have over 3 months of 24 - 7 oh! the joys, stressors, wants and needs, tantrums, compromises and personalities. Shared love, generousity, amazement, surprises, travel woes. Sudden laughter, joint appreciation and caring. A magical spontaneous twilight dance in a Cambodian park, live band playing softly and people lounging and taking it all in. Appreciative audience. Fast impressions of Elephant riding, Ox cart passengers. Multiple boats, planes and trains. Museums. Mausoleums. Temples. Prisons. Monuments. National Parks. Huge Asian Cities. It's real life on crack! What a 'trip' Literally! What is it all about but humbling growth and change, always takes courage and strength. We Did It!

Jim: taking local fashion a step too far! Damn.. he didn't buy it

Caught with 'The Girls' on Soi Cowboy, Bangkok No ..he didn't buy 'em

Down to two, thinking I MAY be the favorite! Might and Right wins over Young and Cute! Yup.. he bought that

excellent Thai Rock Band (as most are!)

REFLECTIONS (OPTIONAL READING)
WARNING:  A FEW PERSONAL THOUGHTS UNABASHEDLY REVEAL THEMSELVES!)

Just like 'real time' (everyday life) my regrets are around the things I didn't do rather than what I DID do! With every wandering experience I realize how our life is so complex and at the same time simplicity in itself. You know the saying 'take care of the small things and the big things will take care of themselves? So true-blue. If I am not taking care of myself, I cannot interact in a way that helps me feel good to be a travelling woman, to feel my true nature of joy and confidence, open to new experiences, people, and ways of being in this world. Again and again, responsibility of self:  always the key to being a kinder presence in this world.

It takes time. And persistance, and every day practice. Oh why can't this come easier for me? My nature battles constantly between dashing around like a hyperactive hummingbird, or at my very worse a cranky bitch on a tight string, snapping at beggers and hawkers, and on the other hand being in a centered, peaceful state.    I crave the balance of high energy dynamo and zen-like state of being.   I DO want both at the same time but they seem slightly at odds with each other and I (occasioally) struggle with all the effort. At this (unidentified) stage in my life, I figured I would be a finished human product.  Shiny done with just the right body, spirit, and intellect, color, size, and shape? Perhaps I am and I just don't know it?! Wow What a concept.

So in times of great and unusual insight, it leads one to believe in acceptance of self, and thereby genuine acceptance of others. Believe in the whole meal deal, the complete package of who you and I are and somehow really learning that pain is 'inevitable, but suffering is optional' as we move forward in life.  Accept the need of both sides and that is just fine.   I Think.

SHARING TIME (optional reading!)

Love this:

All the miseries of womankind come from one thing, not knowing how to remain alone.   (adapted from Blaise Pascal)

Alone and in solitude and isolation. Means not to have anyone diverting you from yourself, no one to save you from your thoughts and feelings, you gottta deal with them all on your own! Oh, the Pain and the Joy!   The learning curve and the self exploration. It ends up just fine, thanks very much!   So used to travelling alone, this trip showed me what it's like to have the best of both worlds, time with others and alone time.

And this:
I've never been the same
since seeing the moon rise
on the other side of the World.

And This:

Those who danced were thought to be quite insane by those who could not hear the music (Angela Monet via Brenda)

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Wednesday 4 May 2022

ASPIRATIONS AND INTENTIONS …..

Tuesday 31 July 2012

Impressions, Experiences, and (a few) Revelations

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